Would I be more successful if I put a tube inside? Do they even make a tube size for this tire?

 

I’ve had trouble getting them to air up but someone on a forum said put a ratchet strap around it and tighten it up some. That worked for me. Slime the tire, that may fix the leak.

 

Never use Slime on a tractor tire, use something like "FlatOut" or something similar. If you can get it remounted put 32 oz. in it and it will never leak again for the life of the tire. It may be a job for the local tire repair shop.

 

Putting a rachet strap around it will help bead it back up easy.
Use a heavy dose of dish soap on the bead also. Not only will it bead up easier. It will seal the bead up as it thickens and dries. This will solve the problem if the bead is where its leaking.

 

I thought an inner tube might press the bead on easier. Nobody has mentioned this yet, or if there is a tube that fits?

 

I had the same problem with a passenger front turf tire. Guy at the tire shop recommended aircraft adhesive to seal the bead. Even after polishing the rim clean and using the adhesive the problem persisted. I ordered a tube on Amazon. Since installing the tube have had no problem with the tire.

I will say that the aircraft adhesive is one HELL of a bead sealer. I needed downward pressure of my FEL to separate the tire from the rim after using it. Could've had a leaky stem causing the original problem but I'll never know.

 

Use loader as a jack....pop it off...take it to a tire shop...don't know what it costs there but it's under 10$ here....otherwise tubes are expensive but will probably fix the problem (the leak and bead issue)

 

this happens to me about every 3 months. I drop the front end loader all the way down to raise the front. then as mentioned above I grab a ratchet strap, and sinch it down to force the tire sides to seal . then I pump the tire up. Once I get a good seal and tire is pumping up . I release the ratchet strap.

 

The tire is partially off the rim so you're not going to be able to inflate it without re-mounting it. I'd remove the wheel / tire and take it to a tire shop. Have the tire removed from the wheel and inspected as it's obviously losing air. It could also be due to a leaking valve stem or core. Leak check, reinstall and tractor on.

 

You can certainly reinstall the tire. As someone mentioned, use either soap or tire grease on the rim. Tubes are available but given the stiffness of the tire, it can be a bit of a pita to install the tube without pinching.

I would use a good tire sealant, not Slime. Look for one that stays liquid and can be washed out if the tire is changed in the future. I like Liquitube (LiquiTube Tire Sealant - Home ) but there are similar products on the market. Those have the advantage of sealing the tire from punctures in the future which a tube definitely will not do.

Those tires can be troublesome to get seated so unless you like messing with them, a tire show can do it quickly for you. If you do it yourself, use tire lube of some sort and a ratchet around the tire. I'll sometimes use a strap long enough to go around the tire twice if I need to get an even spread on the sidewalls.

Use a good sealant and make sure your tires are inflated to recommended pressures so you don't have to repeat the process in the future.

 

To aid in getting the tire inflated you may want to take out the valve core from the stem and put your air Chuck directly on the valve stem. That will allow the most air into the tire the fastest.

 

Get the weight off of it, ratchet strap around it, remove the valve core and have lots of air ready. That is, run your compressor up til it shuts off.

You can also buy what's called a cheater tank, this is just a tank with a 2" pipe and a ball valve. It has a nozzle you stick between the tire bead and the rim. To use it you first remove the valve core, then attach a clip-on style tire chuck. Put the cheater nozzle up to the tire, whack the ball valve open and the burst of air will (usually) seat the beads enough that your compressor can take it from there. Beware, the cheater tanks kick hard so if you're not in good physical shape then maybe have someone else do it.

 

The dealer said I I take the wheel off to bring it in. I found that the valve stem had some piece stuck inside. I’m pretty strong for being crippled.

 

Several of you here have stated not to use Slime. I would like to ask why you say that, and learn what products you use. I have used Slime many times over the years and have never had a problem with it. If there is a better product that works better and doesn’t cause any problems down the road. I would appreciate your input to learn what that product is and why you feel it is better. I do understand that some of the the tire shops hate Slime. when changing tires. Using a better or higher quality product then what i currently use is always a good thing to do. Your input is much appreciated. 🐺

 

Seems like there is a extensive thread on this subject somewhere on this site.....fwiw I switched from slime to tireject several yrs ago with much better all results

 

The problem with slime is that it loses it's seal when your tire runs through wet grass or water puddles, and it has to reseal previous leaks that it stopped before. If the tire gets wet just before you park the machine, the slime patch can let the tire go flat again. I use "FlatOut" and the seal is permanent for the life of the tire. The previous leaks that it fixed will never leak again.

 

Must have steered terrible with the tire in that position.

IMO, with the tire in the position it is, I would buy a tube at a tire shop or implement dealer. Do not buy from eBay or Amazon as they are very cheap China - - - p. The hard part is done getting the tire off the rim far enough to install a tube. Putting tire back on is easy, use a little dish soap around the bead. Tire will not be an issue with tube installed. I use to use Green Slime and other sealants, but not anymore and I wouldn’t recommend them eithe.

 

I was wondering why it wasn’t responsive to steering normally. The grass was over 3 ft high (not anymore now) so I couldn’t see it. The photo doesn’t show it but the whole rim is inside the tire so I cant see it being too hard to put a tube inside. The tire bead is chewed a bit, I can’t say if it would affect sealing but I would think a tube eliminates that worry.
By the way, that was the shop’s plan yesterday - to put a tube inside. It would be a great idea if the tractors had tubes or at least as an option on the front wheels simply for the force they are subject to at times.

I want to address the tire slime stuff. I used the stuff a few times, once in a rear tire on my old zero turn mower, a car tire that was sitting on a flat tire stored and a cargo van tire. None were completely successful - at least not to the point the problem went away for good. Some time ago that stuff took a price jump, it’s not the “cheap fix” anymore.

 

After the tire is back on the rim I would use the old starter fluid 💥 RAPID INFLATION 💥 method. That's the fun way.

 

I was gonna include that method in my previous post but due to the potential for injury or damage, I did not suggest it.

Me personally, on my own equipment, oh heck yeah lol

 

With the tube installed you won't have this problem again. When I had a problem with a front passenger side tire chronically popping off the rim I blamed aggressive steering with a full FEL. Why it happened on one side only I cannot guess. The tube was an easy, permanent fix.

FWIW- I realize there is no "passenger side" on a 1023e. I use the term universally to describe the righthand side of myself, the dog, a cow, etc. Keeps the Gen-x guys shaking their heads.

 

Outcome: Tube $33
Labor $57
Total $90

 

I had a tube I owned put in a heavy tire a couple of months ago.....it was no charge....I did remove the tire and take it in......repairs and rotations on vehicle tires are free while you wait also....57$ labor seems preposterous to me at my location

 

I had the same problem a few weeks back. But to compound it, I was in the dirt and got some grit between tire and rim. The tire would take air but leaked around the bead.

The old tire shop down the road broke it down, cleaned the grit out and resealed the bead for $10. And we chatted the whole time he was doing it.

 

It probably took all of 15 minutes to do. Actually, I thought it would have been covered under the 1st year bumper to bumper warranty. Because they were just here fixing their screwup on the hydraulic lines perhaps they took note of the hour meter for their records they could see if I showed them a picture of the dash readout for hours used, the tractor was barely used to move it. I‘d bet anything there wasn’t much air in that tire and by simply turning spun the tire off.
Gone are the days businesses would occasionally throw a freebie the first time for some small matter to a valued customer.

Yes, it is much more for anything around here. I buy my tires for the family’s cars at Discount Tires on the internet. I have to make sure to strip the labels off the tires because the shops with tire machines will charge higher fees for tires purchased on the internet.

The average cost to mount and balance small stock wheels and tires is $38 per rim ($45 at the dealer). They won’t give me a break if I drop off just the new tires and the old in the back of my pickup and come back for them later.* This way they don’t tie up a lift bay and have another car to jockey around.

*I have a 2 post lift so I can pull the wheels and take them to any shop. It saves my kids or my wife from sitting in a waiting room.

 

I’d say it saves you from laying on your back or crawling around the floor like a crab

 

Just in case you want to know what tube size was used : 10/12R 16.5 TR15 T1012165
JD part number and cost is $30.90 Several tire web stores with free shipping are $19.77

 

Just in case you want to know what tube size was used : 10/12R 16.5 TR15 T1012165
JD part number and cost is $30.90 Several tire web stores with free shipping are $19.77

I am surprised they installed a tube in a tractor tire with a TR15 valve stem (like used in a car).

I replaced a tube on a neighbors Kubota a couple of weeks back and both the old and new tubes were specifically designed for tractors and used a rugged TR218A valve stem.

 

Amazon.com: Air-Loc 18X8.50-10 20X8.00-10 20.5X8.00-10 Tire Inner Tube Mowers Trailers TR13 Valve : Automotive

Buy Air-Loc 18X8.50-10 20X8.00-10 20.5X8.00-10 Tire Inner Tube Mowers Trailers TR13 Valve: Inner Tubes - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Sure enough. This is a link to the tube I used. Tire diameter 18", tire width 8.5", rim size 10"

 

Thanks for the follow up. Good to know size etc in the event I end up in the same situation

 

Tubes generally fit several sizes as long as you get the right rim diameter.

 

Up date to the front tire problem. I just found out the reason it happened.
The rim has a crack in it, the air leaked and deflated the tire. Instead repairing the rim (welding, sealing or replacement) the dealer decides to install an inner tube AND charge me $90 + tax!

 

Up date to the front tire problem. I just found out the reason it happened.
The rim has a crack in it, the air leaked and deflated the tire. Instead repairing the rim (welding, sealing or replacement) the dealer decides to install an inner tube AND charge me $90 + tax!

That was going to be my question : Is the rim a welded 2 piece ? I had one on a tandem disc that leaked on the weld seam. I stopped that BS with J B Weld .

 

D10A-
Welp I’m last in line, thought I’d share some thoughts. You tube has videos to spray starting fluid in it and light it off blowing the tire back on. But we’re past that now. LOL 😝 As far as Slime, I haven’t had much luck with it. Just makes it a PITA when you finally fix it right. I got my 4WD kubota up against a downed tree and got bark between the bead and rim a while back. I popped it off the tractor and took it to my local tire shop. He broke it down, cleaned it out and buffed the rim bead with a wire wheel. Remounted it all for $13 bucks. I was surprised and gave the guy a $10 to stick in his pocket.

As far as sealants, the Fixaflat brand used to have propane as the propellant. Bad stuff, smokin a cig, blow your face off. I hope it’s CO2 now. I’ve used tire plugs with good results. Limped home several times, even on a motorcycle. Using CO2 cartridges or an air compressor.

Looks like the tire popped off the rim. As the guys said, some soapy water and a pry bar, better yet a tire iron, you could spoon it back on. And air it up. The old ratchet strap trick works pretty good. Don’t go buy a blaster just for one time. Take it to a tire shop.

I think you got screwed on the repair. A good dealer would have recognized the rim was defective and offered to replace it. But that may have made it a warranty issue. But damn, $57? That’s probably a half hours labor. Whew! My tire shop would have done it while you wait for $13 dollars, another $5 if you want it spin balanced. I haven’t priced any tubes like that but if the dealer charged you $33, you could have bought the same thing anywhere else for $16.50. Any farm store should carry those. We have a tractor supply and an Atwoods here. They probably put a lawn mower tube in there.

I know you’ve had some health problems, neck and back for me too. Next time, put a post on here. There are lots of smart people on here and lots of experience. But if not, I understand. I don’t like leaving my tractor out if I don’t have too. Good to hear you’re back in the saddle again.

 

D10A-
Welp I’m last in line, thought I’d share some thoughts. You tube has videos to spray starting fluid in it and light it off blowing the tire back on. But we’re past that now. LOL 😝 As far as Slime, I haven’t had much luck with it. Just makes it a PITA when you finally fix it right. I got my 4WD kubota up against a downed tree and got bark between the bead and rim a while back. I popped it off the tractor and took it to my local tire shop. He broke it down, cleaned it out and buffed the rim bead with a wire wheel. Remounted it all for $13 bucks. I was surprised and gave the guy a $10 to stick in his pocket.

As far as sealants, the Fixaflat brand used to have propane as the propellant. Bad stuff, smokin a cig, blow your face off. I hope it’s CO2 now. I’ve used tire plugs with good results. Limped home several times, even on a motorcycle. Using CO2 cartridges or an air compressor.

Looks like the tire popped off the rim. As the guys said, some soapy water and a pry bar, better yet a tire iron, you could spoon it back on. And air it up. The old ratchet strap trick works pretty good. Don’t go buy a blaster just for one time. Take it to a tire shop.

I think you got screwed on the repair. A good dealer would have recognized the rim was defective and offered to replace it. But that may have made it a warranty issue. But damn, $57? That’s probably a half hours labor. Whew! My tire shop would have done it while you wait for $13 dollars, another $5 if you want it spin balanced. I haven’t priced any tubes like that but if the dealer charged you $33, you could have bought the same thing anywhere else for $16.50. Any farm store should carry those. We have a tractor supply and an Atwoods here. They probably put a lawn mower tube in there.

I know you’ve had some health problems, neck and back for me too. Next time, put a post on here. There are lots of smart people on here and lots of experience. But if not, I understand. I don’t like leaving my tractor out if I don’t have too. Good to hear you’re back in the saddle again.

I understand what you are saying. I chose not to play with this tire because I was worried there was damage to the tire bead and I wasn’t looking forward to hurting myself in the heat or spend time I didn’t have if it didn’t work. On top of that I really thought they would take care of this and not bill me. They new exactly what i did, the path I drove and the meter reading of how much time I was on the tractor because they (service manger and sale manager) were here just 12 hours before.