Good luck with the new (to you) tractor. Thanks for the pics

 

That's one heck of a first drive! Glad you made it home with no issues. Congratulations.

 

got one just like it .....its been a faithfull backup and a reliable tractor

 

Your homeland is beautiful. It's good that this great tractor has a good home.

Keane

 

I bought one at auction that was in known worse condition. Dropping coolant, hydraulic oil, and half way home on a 6 hour drive lost all electric. No better way to travel than at 18 mph. Have fun and good luck with your new tractor

 

That’s cool! Enjoy!

 

Good to hear you and the 2140 made it home in good order.

 

Today in between preparing a birthday cake for our son, I took the time to check the SN again : 453044 L 2140. Now I can't run it anywhere in a data base to find the exact production date. Any of you can pinpoint me the year of production ? Seller said 88, but that is after the last production year. As with many older things, original papers sometimes got lost and so was some of the info.
I assumed that it might be up to 5years older then what the seller thought it was, for what I did find on serial numbers.
Birthday present for my son was his own pedal drive John Deere with frontloader, loader on the back and hitch He was over the top happy !
and his birthday cake was almost as he wanted it

 

This winter I want to check on the brakes, because they can cause big issues if they would get worn out.
I tried to internet for some visual info, but I am not yet orientated enough in the models with the same drivetrain, brake system and so on.
Does any remember from own research some video material on how to take that rear axle apart and check it ?
Which models are the same set up as this, so I can expand my Youtube search with different models ?
overnight I have reconditioned the batteries which were in there, just to see how much they will still hold in 24/48h.
driptest is also holding up, still a few drops falling after I parked it in. Mainly in the front part under the hydraulic pump, but there was some oil spill when I looked before buying. Not sure if it was from pooring next to an inlet or by leaking.
thanks in advance

 

Steven, the 2940 will be a similar model.

 

Ditto nearly all JD utility tractors built between '65-'92 in Dubuque or Mannheim factories have very similar rear axle/brake assemblies.

 

So there we go...
what was planned to ba vacuum and wash day became some small frustration.
My dad in law was around so he could help me bleed the brakes. That went all fine and while having him around I was checking all the lights.
Suddenly I got smoke from in the dash.
result a melted fuseplate holder and fuse.

The holder is still ok for use, just need to grind it a bit up so the plate will fit in again. The plate itself seems like it let go.
I have already contacted my local dealer in Slovenia and the piece has been ordered. I am happy that it works out that easy (compared to my russian sidekick tractor )

oh, probably you do note that only a few of the fuses have the correct value fitted. The one that melted and looked like popcorn was a 20Amp...

---------------------

Now i am running the electric wiring diagrams to find some more things out.
one was a new red cable running from the right hand dash to the bottom of the tractor. I found it this runs straight from the 4wd button on the dash to the solenoid. But I would like to have it wired correct again. Just the original cable harness seems to be ... gone ? At the moment, this button is wired opposite of what I think it should do. I ran a test on the solenoid and it still makes the clicking sound, so that should be working.

so to have it back to original, inclusive the dashlight indicator, I would have to order the connector for the solenoid and figure out which cables to repull or reconnect.

One other mysterie cable i found, i suppose is a cigarette's lighter ( 28 V socket ) on the right hand side of the console, just under the hydraulic switches. Am I correct ?

it seemed to be tapped from another harness underneath the cab.

I hope i get the fuse printplate by the end of the week, so I can continue the rewiring of the machine.
and what pops up in my mind, the working lights ( on top of the cab ) still work atm without any fuse plate inside, it is the only thing still provided from battery electrics . And let that be the one that is normally situated on fuse 6 - the one that melted .

 

One other mysterie cable i found, i suppose is a cigarette's lighter ( 28 V socket ) on the right hand side of the console, just under the hydraulic switches. Am I correct ?

I was thinking yesterday evening and suddenly I realized it might be another piece. Is this the part where the lightbulb sits in for the tortoise light from the synchro box ?

 

follow up : both pcb's went to a friend in the Netherlands which will refurbish them for me. He's an expert in electronics and has a passion for his job. So I know it will be in perfect hands. I noticed stamps on both prints and pieces. The rpm meter shows '82, one print plate has '81 on it and the right side seemed to already been changed cause it is printed 37-96 and has already a different inlay. While I am waiting for the return, I will check out the wiring on the tractor to find broken cables, corrosion etc.

a short call with the dealer to inform for some extras. both front indicator / clearance light modules are ordered. a fresh tank of cooling liquid plus the fuse plate that broke. I also asked for the tortoise cover for the synchro box, but that came in at 32 euro's for a 2 by 3 cm green piece of plastic. I friendly thanked him on that offer

 

So a little update on the project, but first a happy green new year to all of you.
I've been cleaning the dust out of every corner and unscrew every possible bit on the interieur.
The roof liner and stuff went out. I discovered it still had the original cabin filters in. Pulled of the old vinyl and stuffed it in the laundry machine. That came out ok and soon I reglue it to the panels. I have done the same on the dashcover, that went ok, but of course it will never look like new.
While I was at it, I did some grinding and rust conversion + a touch of new black paint on parts of the cabin and the pre aircleaner on the hood. Also a good layer of trim on the plastic panels was added.
Just today I got the printplates back from Holland, but I lacked the time to install them. I was busy running the wiring under the hood. cleaned up all the connections on the implement and remounted new connections on the wires.
I hope for next week to get the electronics back in place and give it a first start again. But I am still waiting on a few new fuses and external switched that I ordered to rewire the aftermarket workinglights on the front and back of the cabin.

 

Ok, today I had some time to work my brain around the electric system again. After doing the front and finding most things back, it was time for the mid section.
The mission was to find the original cable that runs to the 4x4 solenoid, but I ended up with some more brainfarts.
I opened up the middle plate in the cabin ( + and extra section that the previous owner grinded out and point welded back in place ) so I had some room to look around.
I found a 3 loose cables , one I could follow back to the panel and marked as the original 4x4 solenoid signal. the other two I was able to trace back and find their names in the manual
the number ' I ' marked is the HI-LO signal cable. from here it runs in the original cable set towards the tortoise light, but I can't find the point where I have to attach it too.
the number ' II ' marked is the tranmission oil pressure switch - connection. but again I can't figure out where this one should be attached. according to the manual there is a spot, but I don't seem to find it on mine.
Maybe one or you can mark it on my pictures or link me a good example.

and last but not least, I have painted the air intake with a few layers of black and it is ready to go back.

and I know that those cables in there look horrible. they will be replaced, but today I did not had time for that. So just multimeter and trace for now!

 

edit : long looking into the parts manual to get to another blue print
so I have an idea where to start looking. but on the picture I took I don't seem to find it and in real time I wasn't able to spot it either. Tomorrow another try!
I assume as drawn on the picture it should be situated on the back site of the plate rather then on the top where all other connections can be found.

 

Because I don't have a wiring diagram, I'm assuming connector marked II plugs onto blade #14.
If switch #15 is not present, then connector marked II is not used.

This is only an assumption.

 

Hi, i forgot to add the diagram of the electronics
and I add the one for the tortoise light ( fuse 12 )

 

another hour in the gymnastic GS2 cabin ! They didn't leave any space unused. So to find that little connector ( nr 14 ) I had to fold myself triple. But I found it !
I personally guess this is to be connect with my number ' I ' from the picture. Since this is the hi-lo controle valve part. So I would think this is the only place where signal to this turtle light can be coming from ? but I can be wrong. the other cable ' ll ' didnt receive any purpose yet, but it does lead to left dash controle panel ( 6 > 7 > 13 ( diagram is wrong and only wrote 1 ) > 9 > 10 .

I will probably be able to test it when I get the dash back in place and run it under power.
but the more I think, the more it seems that I am wrong... but then the turtle signal light need to come direct from one of the main boom lines and the connector which is on now has been agan aftermarket....
anyway, tomorrow I am in for an eye operation, maybe I see much more clear after that

 

Never give up,
so I've been breaking my head about it going over the electric plans.
You must be correct. The ' II ' must be connected to the connector that I discovered today. That means gymnastics again.
The number ' I ' is postive or ground for the HI-LI tortoise light. That must come on the correct place in the boom. So I need to measure this time from the controle panel towards the boom to find its correct position. The sending unit for this HI-LI tortoise light must then be ( in my opion ) the connector seen on the first picture and on the technical drawing, on the picture with a black and green connector plus the old brown wiring. why the previous owner putted a different connector on and taped it shut is a mysterie, but I assume he didn't had the service manual to figure it all out and as the tractor was working, he could not be bothered.

I hope I can give it a test somewhere this week. Monday and Thursday is doctor time and I don't know how it will go with recovery.

 

Every hour I find the time, I try to dive into one of the little things that have to be done.
So I have glued the original fabric back to the forms. Also added the new sound insulation where it was needed and it seems to all hold up ok. Due to shrink I had to patch a 10cm corner on the cabin roofliner with some other spare stuff from the doorpanel. A slight different shade, but thats not the end of the world in an old beast like this.
I had to remake the board that holds the liner and roof instruments in place and that worked out pretty nice.
All cables have been reconnected and 2 extra switches have been installed on the board ( one for the front working lights, one for the rear ) All these extras come from a straight feed of the battery with their own fuse )
Today I put the first print back into the steering column and that was the end of my time
I do need to buy some new screws to secure the plastic dash in place on the frame, it seems like that those screws were not even on when I took it apart, because they are not in any of my boxes with parts.
New main battery cables (plus and negative) and connecters arrived too, I just need to krimp some O connectors on to connect them with the starter.

Its been a great progress so far and I learned already a lot along the way about this serie!
Can't wait for it to blow some smoke again on start up.

next on the list after the dash is in place and the electrics work is of course to test if it runs again.
on to that will be switching the coolant. Flushing the system a few times incl cleaner, before adding the JD cool gard stuff.
Then I go on with new oil and filter, before diving in the big works of checking out the brakes ...

 

And the progress continues day by day.
All electrics have been changed and the instrument panels with the print plates are installed!
With a small heart I turned over the key and instant start ! Not bad after standing still for almost 2 months and being in outside temperatures of -5 degrees Celsius.
So the beast is driving again and all controle lights on the dash work as they were suppose to do. Which I find really nice.

I then continued with some small stuff that had to be taken care off.
A bottom part was cut out at some point in life and welded with a few points. I took it off to rewire down there and now I welded (crappy welded ) some wings on the original plate so it sits nicely in place and will be bolted down. It did receive some coats of black paint after I took the initial picture

Rubber cover of the air seat had been placed back onto the frame. That was a hassle, but with the help of a hairdryer the piece did fold back to its place!
Now I'm working on the roofliner again, so the plastic panels of the cabin filters will fit to their original place. So far the liner does not want to sit good. Maybe I added a bit to much foam, so I'll take it down again. Easiest would be by taking the side brackets of, but those screws are rusted in place. And I would need to take the windows down to reach in properly with a screwdriver.

two other questions I have.
first I thought of maybe fitting a oil catch can, to prevent further dirt getting blown into the system again. Would it be this hose seen on the picture ( the small greasy one?

second question.
I have been looking into all the books I have. but I can't seem to figure out what this arm is for
it is positioned on the right side. Its the warm pointed up in the picture with nothing connected to it.

further another shopping list has been sent.
new front indicators, some seals and engine oil cleaner

 

And the progress continues day by day.
All electrics have been changed and the instrument panels with the print plates are installed!
With a small heart I turned over the key and instant start ! Not bad after standing still for almost 2 months and being in outside temperatures of -5 degrees Celsius.
So the beast is driving again and all controle lights on the dash work as they were suppose to do. Which I find really nice.
View attachment 941638
I then continued with some small stuff that had to be taken care off.
A bottom part was cut out at some point in life and welded with a few points. I took it off to rewire down there and now I welded (crappy welded ) some wings on the original plate so it sits nicely in place and will be bolted down. It did receive some coats of black paint after I took the initial picture
View attachment 941639
Rubber cover of the air seat had been placed back onto the frame. That was a hassle, but with the help of a hairdryer the piece did fold back to its place!
Now I'm working on the roofliner again, so the plastic panels of the cabin filters will fit to their original place. So far the liner does not want to sit good. Maybe I added a bit to much foam, so I'll take it down again. Easiest would be by taking the side brackets of, but those screws are rusted in place. And I would need to take the windows down to reach in properly with a screwdriver.

two other questions I have.
first I thought of maybe fitting a oil catch can, to prevent further dirt getting blown into the system again. Would it be this hose seen on the picture ( the small greasy one?
View attachment 941636

second question.
I have been looking into all the books I have. but I can't seem to figure out what this arm is for
it is positioned on the right side. Its the warm pointed up in the picture with nothing connected to it.
View attachment 941637


further another shopping list has been sent.
new front indicators, some seals and engine oil cleaner

Mine are open station but I have switched most of the dash bulbs to led. I'm sure while you were working on it you found that some were black and maybe even some melted plastic. With how old these tractors are any stress you can take off of the electrical system and reduce the heat is a good thing. Bonus is they are much brighter than the oem bulbs.

 

air seat?

 

mine was given a Grammer air suspension seat. Probably some years after it came out. Works ok, just need to give it a power source and a switch. ( switch because I don't know if it stops on its own when pressure is made. And I don't want to burn out the pump. So rather manually activate and deactivate when it is needed. )

Today the box with bolts and screw arrived, because the metric stuff I can buy in the local hardwareshop does not fit the threads.

 

So today was another day putting pieces back in place and flushing the radiator.
First flush of the radiator is done, one or two more will be performed until it gets nice 'clean' water back out.
roofliner back in place for the 3th time. This time I did detach the side rails first, which hold the thing in place. Also gave it a coat of black while they were down.
steering column got its cover again. Only bottom part missing, because I painted the bolts black just before taking the picture

flyweight, you were right on the SCV. I checked around and on the righthand column there is the position for a 3th lever, which then can be connected to that rod! mysterie solved.

Also a oil catch can is not needed, because I found out it has a straight pipe down the chassis to get rid of the fumes.

What was added on the list today :
1 radiator cap, 1 thermostat sensor, 1 thermostat, 1 thermostat gasket, some other gaskets and a new oil filter.

 

so we continue.
but with a headscrather
I order the pieces for the radiator and I run into 2 problems.
1st I changed the temp gauge for the radiator, because the old one jumped from nothing to high. I did not look how long it took before ordering a new one, but on installing the new piece I did take notice of how long it takes before it changes/ jumps. And so it goes again from nothing to over max in 2-3 minutes. Way before the temperature water is at 80 degrees.
I do check the temp on the block and pipes with a laser thermometer just so i had an idea of what the actual temps were.
so I suspect it has to do with faulty wiring ( again, or just some crack in the insulation of the wire. ) can I be correct on that ? Because the wire leading to the gauge is a the positive charged 12v.

2nd
I have drained the original fluid
I have flushed it a first time with radiator cleaner, that is when I noticed the original gauge on max
I flushed the 2nd and 3th time with a new gauge and both times with cleaner added
and the result looks like on the picture.
I notice there is still lots of slurry/muck/grease whatever you want to call it on top of the distillated water.
Can this be from the cleaner still making stuff loose ? I disconnected the bottom radiator pipe when finishing the last flush and that thing does have some muck on the bottom.
- I also checked the oil level and that remains at the same level a mm under max and it does not show signs of mixture (milky color ) or at least not on the dipstick.

To continue I first ask here for some opinions, so I don't damage anything.
Me, I think to flush a few more rounds with pure water now and see what that gives as a result.

edit :
the paper I dipped in on the top of the radiator reservoir, just as I did with my finger.
I used the white paper to try and give a better contrast of how it looks.
I will add a shot of the 3 flush runs, as I have taken a sample of each while it was draining.
left is the original liquid that was in and then we go to the right with 3times flush with cleaner
on all 3 flush runs you notice a ring on top of the cup, this is only sticking to the outside of the cup and is not a full layer on top of the water.