[vuylsteke.steven]

Ok,
I have just opened the floorplate again and found the cover plate.
I tried by adjusting the rod nr 10 on the first page, to shorten the movement. it did help some. the bolt was almost at the end. I shortened it for 5mm ( see shiny rod ) so there is still a little play when its not operating.
what you mention, can I just open that piece from the sides with the bolts 20 and 9 ? Or is it better to take the cover plate off and work on it in the shop ? I don't know what to expect when opening it, oil running out ? how much, it is almost the highest piece in the block so I think not that much would run out ?
how fool proof is this ? View attachment 943758

ok, this piece is 'fool proof'. I took it down and opened it up.
Nothing special, there was one little O-ring missing (nr 17) so there might have been a little leak.
I am not sure about the ball bearings, they seem to have dropped out pretty fast before I even moved out the shifting piece. so it could be that this was not correctly reinstalled.
I changed all the o rings on the levers to be sure, cleaned up the pistons and reinstalled it on the tractor.
It seems to nicely shift back and forward and especially on the return it clicks in on its place.
I forgot to take a picture to the inside part. the hi-lo basket seemed to be a bit contaminated ( read greyish ) compared to the PTO basket ( read golden oil ). With basket I mean the place where the shifter sits that is connected with these levers. So the lower part of these box shapes ( see picture of the cover i took off. )
I thenk the bearing that is missing on the shifter arm on the dashboard will still help keeping the shifter in place. It still have the tendency to drop.

Now I am thinking on buying a oil pressure gauge to do some further testing of the hydraulics. Any suggestion what type ? link to a modern version, so I can find something online.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

so what is planned next :
When I bought the tractor the idea was to check the brake pads + disc and if needed change them. The reason for that was, that when I test them out it goes as followed. I press, nothing really happens, but when I press hard/very hard, they do bite.
But first I need to bleed the air again to see if that will help solve the problem. If not I will dig in further.
But that brings me to hydraulics.
The seller told me that they worked on the clutch or something during the time he had it and that recently the hydraulic filter and oil has been changed. Color of the oil still looks gold.
but when I now check the oil level on the rear, it shows 'low'. I am not surprised it goes down, because I see several places under the tractor where oil dripped down.
So maybe top it up again and run some test

and then I think :
1 drain and check the oil. if ok re-use, because it is another 400euro ( approx the same in dollars I suppose atm ) to change it. And I am already over my expected budget that I had in mind.
2 check the hydraulic filter. if needed change or probably change anyway
3 check the by-pass valve and give it a general clean.

and then point 4, have a look to the brakes.

oh and before I stick my head under it, give it a proper degrease washing, so I also have a visual check of where things leak.

Are there some other things I should have some eyes on while doing this job ? any suggestions and points to take care off ?

 

[Zebrafive]

If you drain the hydraulic fluid, check the sump screen (this not the hydraulic filter)
I see no problem with reusing the hydraulic fluid.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

If you drain the hydraulic fluid, check the sump screen (this not the hydraulic filter)
I see no problem with reusing the hydraulic fluid.

correct
i forgot to add that one on the list. But I had it in mind.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

short update before getting into the oily part.
Now my temp gauge goes from nothing to full with a minimum of temp change. I thought the sensor would be broken, bought a new one, same problem. Maybe a bad replacement so got a 3th one but still the same. I ran the wiring sensor to first connector, ok. connector to main connector at the cabin, ok. Main connector to dash connector, ok. and dash connector to gauge, ok.
so wiring seems to be fine.
Then I connected the new temp sensor straight to the dash and heated it by hand, resulting in the Gauge shooting up again to max, but dropping after a few seconds as the sensor turns cold again.
Am i right to assume that the gauge has gone bad ? replacement of this little bastard starts at 183euro .

 

[Zebrafive]

Same result from three sensors.
Wiring good.
Same result wired direct.
That only leaves the gauge.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

long time that I wrote something.
Project is still on its way. Soon the grass is long enough and the first cut of hay will be made.
But in the mean time i was lucky to score a frontloader , locally, that came of a 2850. click and play. ( picture missing ) I installed it two weeks ago, but had to wait for some repairs on the cilinders, fittings and new seals. I hope to drive it to the mechanic on Monday so he can hook the hydraulics to the tractor.
I have not ordered the gauge yet, I keep an eye on the temp when running it, but so far it did not seems to go hotter then suppose to.
My big clean up has been done and now he/she looks like this :

 

[Zebrafive]

What model loader? My JD 2030 has a JD 245 loader. My JD 6415 has a JD 640 loader.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

I have found a loader from the German company Baas. They were known for their curved loaders. Company has been taken over a few times and still continues under another name.
I will upload a picture when its up and running.
I paid 1450€ euros for it and a 100 for a local welder to do some touch ups. My dad in law made some new bushing where there was too much play and a few new seals for the piston head. Next week I hope to score a bucket with grabbing forks.

 

[Tx Jim]

What type valve will control frt end loader(scv or ind)? If ind FEL control valve be sure it's configured for 2140 closed center hyd system.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

To be honest, I don't know as I am new to mechanics, I learn along the way.
The piece came off a 2850 JD and his neighbor has the same loader running on a 2140. Only on the 2140 it was linked directly to the hydraulic controles of the tractor.
I suppose the 2850 has the same closed hyd system as the 2140 ? any one who can confirm that ?
But I will let the system be installed by a local hydraulic service point in the next village. And I will give them all the info I have so they know what needs to be changed and ordered when needed.

edit : little google search :

https://pruefberichte.dlg.org/filestorage/JDEERE-2850_Nr1021_1986-englisch.pdf

Page 7 : closed centre system.

 

[Tx Jim]

You should be fine mounting loader from 2840 on a 2140.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Hi,
so the guys are ready to connect but they are not a 100% sure which lines to take. They think to disconnect or go from, one of the rear hydraulics and use that for the frontloader spool

which points should they attach them to looking at the picture ?

if possible circle the in and outlet so I can print it out

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

As the top two flexible hoses go to one of the two rear-end attachments, we think to use those and connect them to the in and outlet of the frontloader.

 

[Tx Jim]

If it was my tractor I'd attach FEL control valve pressure line at location of green Tee in photo & return oi to ported filter cover.

 

[flyweight]

Remove plug (15) from the PCV (Pressure Control Valve).
Pressurized oil supply to loader valve will connect here.

NOTE: If oil line exist at location of plug (15) as in example image below, install a TEE to supply pressured oil to the loader valve.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Thanks guys that is great first hand info!
I crawled under again and discovered the connections have been made before. There is a Tee joint that supllies oil to lowest fat flexible hose on the previous picture (lowest spool block) and a tapped off connection see attached picture.

So that should leave the mechanic with an easy plug and play job. Just measuring the hoses, press them and screw together.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

So all hoses have been installed and the loader is doing its job! that is a win.
But while disconnecting the plugs, the oil that came out did not seem to match the description that it has been recently changed ....

So we continue on that. Ordered a new filter and some buckets of oil.
Today I made time to drain all fluids ( also engine oil which was already waiting on the shelf )
Unscrewing the screen was a hassle. As seen on the picture before I have already a return line on that plug. So while trying to get those lose the little pipe broke. Local mechanic comes to acces it later to have it remade.
Screen is as seen on the picture.

dirty, but no metal scrapings of what so ever. I am happy on that.
So for now I just have to wait for the little pipe to be remade. Puzzle the pieces back together and top up the oils. From there on she should be ready to work!
and not a day to early. Farmers started their first cut.

can someone explain why I would have that small return line on the suction screen ? it comes from the block above it. joint together with a T.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Ow times flies.
I figured out those little hoses are just return lines. They don't have any pressure on them and after one broke my dad in law was able to turn a new 'bolting' head and put some certified pipe on the end. We did had some massage time laying on the gravel stones putting it all back into place without loosing too much of the oil.
Because after I did make the change, some parts were leaking while the tractor was running. So much that I must have lost about 10l of the precious gold while making the hay and driving around.
Turned out that the seal of the filter was not sitting correct and it dripped a lot. Also some other parts were not tight enough and the fresh oil found its way out. Now there is only one leaking gasket left between the tractor and the stacked blocks, but that will be for autumn. I need to take many pieces off again to reach in there. I did a time test and I loose about 9 drops a minute. I can live with that for now.
This weekend is the local tractor meeting and I hope I have the time to go and show my oldtimer !
She has been doing great on her first working days of the year, pressing 375 square bales with a New holland 366.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

my working horse needs some more work again.
As i am in the process of taking down an old barn and moving the dirt around, I have noticed that the clutch is dropping.

Symptoms are :
-long travel of the clutch pedal before pressure is made
-while in gear, depressing the clutch (pressing in) does not disengage the clutch - tractor keeps driving -

I add some picture of the master cilinder on how it looks now.
I have the complete manuals on how to work on the tractor. But I look for some first hand info where to start reading. To my untrained eye, it looks like the master cilinder has already been worked on and is it its max distance.

I guess I am looking to splitting the tractor the first time right ?