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John Deere 2150 loud tapping/ticking/vibration from hyd pump **VIDEO ADDED**

29K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  wims8899  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, this is my first post to the forum. I bought a JD 2150 a few months ago but have not used it much at all. I changed the oil, fuel filter, flushed the coolant and added SCAs. I have not gotten around to changing the hyd fluid.

When I start it and run it over 1250-1300 RPM I begin to hear a loud tapping/ticking/vibration type noise that seems to be coming from the front hydraulic pump. It resonates in the hyd fluid supply lines and running down the right side of the tractor and when touching those lines I can feel the resonant vibrations. When I go back to idle, it stops. I let the tractor idle for 20 minutes to warm it up thinking maybe its a cold fluid type issue but that did not seem to affect it. The noise is consistent and constant above 1250-1300 RPMs. The noise is present no matter what configuration...ie lift up/down, pto engaged, steering wheel turned left/right. Everything seems to work fine, power steering, 3ph, brakes and pto. The hyd fluid level looks fine as well, maybe on the lower end of the range on the dispstick.

Here is a youtube link to a video I took... John Deere 2150 Hydraulic Tapping Ticking Vibration Noise - YouTube
Any ideas on where to start?

I thought about changing the fluid/filter and cleaning all of the screens but don't want to throw new fluid in if there is something more major going on and I'll have to drain it all out anyway.

I got a good deal on and flail mower and am supposed to go pick it up on Monday, however am planning to test it out with my tractor. Trying to decide if I can get away with a short test of the mower without doing damage to my tractor.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to GTT!

I tore apart and rebuilt the main hydraulic pump on a 2150. Here's a post within that thread you may find helpful. There were a lot a variations and options to these machines, so it can be difficult to narrow down what you have or what the main issue is.

Rebuilding the main pump wasn't difficult, but in a running tractor it will be more difficult to get it removed than an actual overhaul. That being said, it could be a different issue altogether. Some further troubleshooting and testing is in order. Can you use the screwdriver trick to narrow down where the noise is coming from?

If you haven't done this before, it's quite easy. Simply take a long screwdriver and touch the object you want to listen to, then lean your ear and press the handle firmly into your ear. You'll "hear" the component you have the screwdriver on. Be careful to use something long so you don't get caught up in rotating stuff. A nice handle also helps, you don't want to stab yourself in the ear. LOL
 
#12 ·
I tore apart and rebuilt the main hydraulic pump on a 2150. Here's a post within that thread you may find helpful. There were a lot a variations and options to these machines, so it can be difficult to narrow down what you have or what the main issue is.

Rebuilding the main pump wasn't difficult, but in a running tractor it will be more difficult to get it removed than an actual overhaul. That being said, it could be a different issue altogether. Some further troubleshooting and testing is in order. Can you use the screwdriver trick to narrow down where the noise is coming from?

If you haven't done this before, it's quite easy. Simply take a long screwdriver and touch the object you want to listen to, then lean your ear and press the handle firmly into your ear. You'll "hear" the component you have the screwdriver on. Be careful to use something long so you don't get caught up in rotating stuff. A nice handle also helps, you don't want to stab yourself in the ear. LOL
I use a long hose to listen, stick one down inside a engine oil fill hole once and listen to the noise. Once used to the sounds you can pick stuff out making different noises that could be a problem.
 
#4 ·
Check the lines and make sure they are rubbing/abrading each other or the frame. It sounds high pitched in your video. Could be a relief valve or something bouncing too. The video helps, but this will be tricky at best to diagnose over the internet.
 
#5 ·
Welcome aboard!

In the past, I’ve had to change the nylon bushings on the hydro driveshaft coupling. It’s at the front of tractor, inbetween the fuel tank and radiator, at least on the larger 30, 40 & 50 series tractors. When I hear a ticking noise up front, the bushings are usually the culprit. Let us know what you find out. :bigthumb:
 
#7 ·
raco232, Tx Jim, dieselshadow... thanks for the input!

I'll check the drive coupling and any rubbing lines. I actually thought about loose rubbing/vibrating parts being the culprit, especially with it being tied so tightly to engine vibrations/RPMs. I had an ATV that made an awful noise when revved but it was just lose bolts on the skid plate...easy fix.

So...

Best Case scenario it is some hyd lines/loose parts that need tightening
Worst Case scenario is my hyd pump needs replacement or rebuild.

If this was a worst case scenario problem, do you all think running this thing for 10 minutes to test out a mower tomorrow is a bad idea??

I only ask because I already struck a deal on the mower and the only way to load it up is with my tractor.

Thanks again for your input!
 
#9 ·
I had that exact issue on the 2150 I worked on. Good call sir. :thumbup1gif:
 
#10 ·
I did the screw driver listen method and the part that stood out the most was one of the hydraulic lines. There are three lines and the one with the arrow in the pics was the loudest by far. The actual hyd pump didn't seem to make much noise and tracing it back to the tranny case that sounded fine too. I also checked to make sure that line wasn't vibrating on another part. It seems tight and seems to have clearance all the way back. Very strange.

I also noticed when the RPMs were at about 1250 (when the noise is just starting), if I lift the 3ph it would quiet the noise a bit when travelling up. But the noise is very consistent at 1250-1300 rpm.
 

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#22 ·
RAM2940, that's what I'm trying to determine...

Is this something that is going to "grenade" the inside of my tractor if not taken care of?

Or is this one of those, "it's a 35 yr old tractor, of course it makes noises" type issues?

Ultimately I got this thing to do some work around the farm, mostly mowing. I don't need a restored perfect tractor, just want something solid and reliable that isn't going to break my bank account.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Boy not knowing how the hydraulic pump works that sounds like a high speed loose Tappet sound? Something has play metal to metal. Is the pump a rotary style pump with several little pistons? It is a small sounding metallic tick to me. I would be looking at how the hydraulic pump is built for free moving pistons that are moved in a rotary motion but I could be very wrong too.
Like this pump it hits the pistons in a rotary motion not a gear pump design.
 
#14 ·
Boy not knowing how the hydraulic pump works that sounds like a high speed loose Tappet sound? Something has play metal to metal. Is the pump a rotary style pump with several little pistons? It is a small sounding metallic tick to me. I would be looking at how the hydraulic pump is built for free moving pistons that are moved in a rotary motion but I could be very wrong too.
I tore apart and rebuilt the main hydraulic pump on a 2150. Here's a post within that thread you may find helpful. There were a lot a variations and options to these machines, so it can be difficult to narrow down what you have or what the main issue is.
Check out the link I posted earlier in the thread. You can see how the pump works and is assembled. Your assumption is correct. It is a rotary with radial pistons the drop down as the pressure is needed. Once up to pressure, they stay "up" away from the eccentric shaft allowing the pump to "freewheel" if you will.
 
#17 ·
Happy New Year and thanks again for all of the ideas!

I picked up that mower yesterday and I had the old farmer I bought the mower from listen to it. Right away he said it sounds like air in the line. Said he's heard that before on machines he's had in the past. That would make sense since I have seen micro air bubbles on the dipstick when checking the hyd fluid.

He said I need to bleed the system to get the air out. My question is, if that is air, is that an indication of a bigger problem? Why is air getting into the system?
 
#18 ·
The system is self bleeding, no need to worry about that.

Open the rear oil fill cap on the rear of the tractor while it’s running. Look inside with a flashlight. Do you see or hear any spraying of oil?

Another thing to check, oil level and quality. What does the oil look like? Is it up to level? Does the surge tank up above the pump ever get warm?
 
#21 ·
An air leak on the suction side of the system sounds bad, hopefully its something simple.

Sometimes when I start it up I can hear a very high whine coming from the tranny case, almost like its loading up or starving for fluid, but then it goes away. I always chocked that up to cold fluid though.
 
#20 ·
dieselshadow, in the past I did open up the hyd fluid cap and look for spraying oil. I did not notice anything, but will try it again. I have not noticed the surge tank getting warm, but will check.

The fluid quality is unknown. The tractor came from the original owner but sold to me by her neighbor. She was older and selling off her estate. She had horses and the tractor was primarily used to bush hog her fields. Her neighbor said she had money and he thought John Deere would come out to her farm for all of the servicing. But who knows...

So the hyd fluid quality is unknown and I have not seen the screens or changed the filter.


New fluid/filter/screens is next on my list, I have not done it since I got the tractor. The fluid is within range on the dipstick but is definitely on the lower side, but within range. The fluid looks clean but sometimes I see a little dark rust color on the dipstick edge. It's not much and I always thought it is from the inside of the dipstick tube developing a little rust and scraping off on the dispstick when pulled out.
 
#25 ·
Yea, that is probably a good place to start.

Do you have any links to threads on the hyd filter and sump screens procedures/locations?

Also how to check the hyd filter relief valve?

I clearly need a manual, haha. Funds are tight though after Christmas.

I do have a Pressure gauge I used to test the hyd pressure on my JD 455 w/ 40 FEL.
 
#26 ·
I am with TxJIm, filter/screen/fluid first

There could be a check valve (steel ball) in an oil line at the clutch housing, depending on tractor options. See the drawing.

Maybe the check ball is making the noise? :dunno:
 

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#31 ·
I am with TxJIm, filter/screen/fluid first

There could be a check valve (steel ball) in an oil line at the clutch housing, depending on tractor options. See the drawing.

Maybe the check ball is making the noise?
Image
.

Zebrafive, thanks for the schematic. Line #22 is by far the noisiest hyd line. The others have some resonant vibrations but not as high as #22.
 
#27 ·
I would suggest changing the fluids/filter/cleaning the suction screen as well. Look at that thread I linked to earlier. Lots and lots of pics that could answer your questions and get you more familiar with your 2150. :thumbup1gif:
 
#33 ·
The line that is vibrating is the one supplying oil to the main pump from the transmission pump. Not sure what is causing it, but I would be interested to see what the pressure gauge would say for pump inlet pressure. May be a problem with the relief valve in the cooler circuit. It is behind a 1 1/4" plug in the clutch housing just behind and beside of the brake valve. Also may want to check the fitting in top of the reservoir in front of the radiator. There is a check ball in that fitting that may have gotten dislodged and is blocking oil flow somewhere.
 
#35 ·
**UPDATE**

I finally got around to getting some Hygard and filter from John Deere.

Drained the hyd fluid and it looks like water is in the fluid.

So at this point I am wondering if I can drain fluid from any other points on the tractor (like the hyd pump) in order to get as much of that stuff out as possible.

I'd hate to fill it with expensive JD Hygard only to have it be contaminated.

Anybody have advice on the most economical way to flush the hyd system?

Maybe generic hyd fluid mixed with kerosene or diesel?
 

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#37 ·
I’d be more concerned with the milky appearance of the oil. That indicates water contamination. Check the shifter boots for tears and make sure they are attached at the base. This is where most water makes it’s way into the system. Water will destroy your brakes and PTO linings and cause general havoc in your hydraulic system.
 
#39 ·
Sorry, this seems like dumb question but,

Can anybody ID this part??

When I was pulling the oil filter can off, the spring, washer o-ring and this metal spacer looking part fell out.

Well I can't say for sure exactly where it came from, bc I first saw it when I heard it impact the drain pan below.

The drain plug to the sump was off, but I don't think it fell out of there but I can't say for sure.

Looking at the schematic, it could be #3 I suppose, but it looks like a spacer, not a "snap ring". All the other parts are accounted for except #3.
Just doesn't makes sense that it would go there. Also strange that it looks like it was crushed.
 

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