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Lightweight Trailer Recommendations

6.6K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  coaltrain  
#1 ·
Hello Green Tractor Fans
Looking for suggestions for a lightweight trailer for transporting my new X758 with a 54" deck.
Any ideas or suggestions are much appreciated.
Thanks
 
#2 ·
I brought my 455 with 54" deck home on a 5x8 single axle trailer. It fit with an inch to spare with the deck discharge chute held up. Length wise it fit but didn't have much room to move it for weight distribution. I would go with a 6x10 trailer. If you want to keep it light a metal mesh floor will cut down on the weight.
 
#5 ·
I just bought a used 6'X10' open trailer for towing my2014 X540 with a 54" deck. It weighs about 900 pounds. With my 700 pound tractor I will be under the 2,000 tow limit of my '01 Wrangler. I'll let you know how it works. I'm picking it up Monday after they install the hitch.
 
#3 ·
If you want really lightweight you could get one of the folding trailers in a box. Some assembly required but in the end they can be found rated for up to 1800 lbs. pretty reasonably priced too at around $350.

Jim


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#4 ·
#6 · (Edited)
I used the heck out of one of these before I bought a pickup. Used 3/4" treated plywood for a floor, wouldn't hesitate one bit for 1500 or so pounds at highway speeds.

1720 lb. Capacity 48 in. x 96 in. Super Duty Folding Trailer

Jim


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This thing isn't wide enough to work with a 54" deck. It will definitely hit the fenders. You spent good money on a quality tractor. Get a good trailer & tie downs.
I see this all the time. Guys will spend $30K on a motorcycle then use Xmas ribbon to tie it down. Had a guy that would not maintain his $25K bike that he drove every day. What chance did his trailer have? None, it rolled in Yellowstone with 2 bikes on it.
 
#7 ·
Think about if you have any other use for the trailer. I borrowed a friends a few times and realized I need a bigger one. I bought a 14x7 landscape trailer. Now that got to be too small and I bought a 5 ton car hauler 20 foot long. Now I'm looking at a deckover. I've got a trailer problem.:laugh:

Seriously, give it some thought and buy once. Here many of the used trailer are almost as much as new. Most of the used ones I've seen here are close to junk.
 
#9 ·
Think about if you have any other use for the trailer. I borrowed a friends a few times and realized I need a bigger one. I bought a 14x7 landscape trailer. Now that got to be too small and I bought a 5 ton car hauler 20 foot long. Now I'm looking at a deckover. I've got a trailer problem.:laugh:

Seriously, give it some thought and buy once. Here many of the used trailer are almost as much as new. Most of the used ones I've seen here are close to junk.

Hate to say this you bought a 7w x 14L not a 14w x 7L trailer..
 
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#11 ·
Also gotta take into consideration what the tow rig is. I used to pull the little 4x8 with a Jeep TJ and my dads 54" 318 fit on it just fine, just have to raise the deck up.

Definitely agree on quality tie downs but that little trailer is tough.

I didn't have anyplace to store a rigid trailer either so the fold up part solved that.

Now with the Jeep sickness and the Deeres I currently have I use a 3/4 ton Cummins with Midsota 22' tilt bed 16k gooseneck. But I also have a place to park it. ;)

Jim


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#12 ·
Also gotta take into consideration what the tow rig is.
:thumbup1gif:I also think tow vehicle plays a roll in trailer width. I like to be able to see a trailer using the vehicle side mirrors.
 
#15 ·
My new (to me) 6'X10' trailer worked out good. Have plenty of room on either side of my 54" deck. Don't have to worry about scraping it if I'm not totally center. Length wise I have room for the tractor and push mower. However I'm not going to win any races towing it with my Wrangler.
 
#17 ·
+1 on the Featherlite trailers. I bought one in 1997 and still use it all the time. All aluminum except for the axle assembly. 6' X 10' with a ramp on the back which is built to be driven on. It's light enough that I can move it around the yard by hand. No maintenance with painting or rotten wood. Just replaced the tires on it recently, after 19 yards, just to be on the safe side.
Mike Hawkins
 
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#21 ·
Buy the biggest one you can afford, tow, and store. You will always find uses for it, if not someone will buy it for most of what you paid for it. That being said I have 7x12 Texas Bragg trailer with a drop down tail gate/ramp that I like. it is a little short when I have my FEL on my 2210 but it works. I did not think I would like such a small trailer (my other trailer is a 28 foot enclosed haulmark) but it is quite handy and it rated for 3500 pounds so it can haul a decent load. I looked at the TSC trailers and they looked like junk to me because of the thin metal they use for their frames. When looking at small utility trailers pay special attention to the thickness of the metal used for the frame and the welds on the frame. I have a 2210 and when I have it all rigged up with stuff to take out to my property I am pretty sure I am between 1500-2000lbs. Texas Bragg or Big Tex brand trailers seem to be ruggedly made from what I have looked at. The TSC's did not look near as durable. I use my stuff frequently and pretty hard so that was a concern for me.

My trailer is only a single axle, which I consider a negative when hauling a tractor because if you lose a tire with a load, I am sure it could get interesting. I only bought it because I was moving last year from Texas to NC and was in a bit of bind it was the biggest and nicest one I could afford at the time. It is a nice trailer for what it does.

If you can afford it, I would recommend a tandem axle trailer. I have had many blowouts on my Haulmark over the years and most of the time you rarely feel it when they blow out and it doesn't affect the controllability of the trailer when you lose a tire. I can envision the tail wagging the dog should a tire blow out on a single axle trailer especially if you have a dense item like a SCUT on it.

Maybe someone can shed some light on that type of scenario.
 
#22 ·
Rules for buying a small open trailer (under 16' in length) from someone who owned a trailer dealership for years.

1. Make sure to pay close attention to the following.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating - (G.V.W.R.) - This is the maximum weight of the tow vehicle when fully loaded.

Gross Combination Weight Rating - (G.C.W.R.) - Maximum combined weight of the trailer and tow vehicle when loaded. This includes all passengers, fuel, luggage, etc.

Gross Axle weight Rating - (G.A.W.R.) - The maximum amount of weight the axle on the trailer can carry.

The ONLY way to know what the real weight of a tow vehicle and trailer is to weigh the rig on a vehicle scale when fully loaded, filled with fuel, passengers, luggage and ready to travel. You can find scales at truck stops, large agricultural mills, places that sell concrete or asphalt or even asphalt sealant in bulk, etc. Don't guess, weight it.

2. A single axle trailer should not have more than 10% to 15% of the total weight of the trailer LOADED and LOAD SECURED on the trailer tongue. On small open trailers, you can use a bathroom scale to measure the actual tongue weight. Either crank down the tongue jack so the trailer is at the actual tow height or use a block of wood and a 2"x4" and set the trailer tongue on the bathroom scale.

If the trailer ball size is 1"7/8th's", the maximum tongue weight is 10% of the trailers G.V.W.R.
If the trailer ball size is 2", the maximum tongue weight is 12% of the trailer G.V.W.R.
If the trailer ball size is 2" 5/16, the maximum tongue weight is 15% of the trailer G.V.W.R.

3. A trailer can have a G.A.W.R. of 2,000 lbs (which is the bare minimum of a trailer axle I would tow on the road) and if the trailer weight empty is 400 lbs, the maximum load it can carry would be 1,600 lbs. A trailer with a 2,000 lb axle will have a 1"7/8th size hitch ball and therefore the tongue weight should NOT exceed 160 pounds when fully loaded and secured.

4. Generally, the larger the diameter tire and wheel, the higher the axle weight rating. I personally wouldn't own a open utility trailer with less than a 3,500 lb axle rating (G.A.W.R.), which would likely mean the trailer would have a 15" tire and wheel and a 2" or 2 5/16" ball hitch. Larger wheels are more common and easier replaced at more sources and they also spin less per mile and create less heat on the axle bearings, etc. Their load capabilities are greater and the tire options are also greater which means more competitive prices (usually). Watch out for some NEW trailers that use USED Bias Ply tires to save money. They get the Mobile Home take offs, which often have been exposed to sidewall possible rot from the elements. The tires are cheap for a reason.

5. Anything over 16' in length on a trailer and consider a beaver tail on the back of the trailer to aid in loading and cut down on the angle where the ramp and trailer meet. Loading garden tractors this becomes more important because of the clearance issue.

6. Get LED lights whenever available, they are far less work and brighter.

7. If you are going to haul heavy loads relative to the tow vehicle, always make sure the trailer has at least one axle with electric brakes. If a trailer has a 7 way plug, it has electric brakes and likely a 12 volt breakaway kit. If it has a 4 way plug, it doesn't.

8. Mount REAL trailer tie down points on the trailer, whether they are "D" rings or similar. ALWAYS USE GRADE 5 or 8 HARDWARE on all tie down installations to provide the maximum strength. A "D" Ring rated for 1,200 lbs assume you use real hardware to secure it, not wood screws.....(Yes, I have seen many where the tie down points were wood screwed to the deck as that was all they had available)

9. Use mounting back plates to make sure the tie downs are properly secured and avoid pulling the mounting hardware through the trailer deck.

10. Look carefully at the welded joints and see if the welds penetrated the metal and actually secured the two pieces of steel. You would be surprised on how many of the welds are only partial or look like someone stuck gum on the metal, instead of actually bonding the two pieces together. If you don't know what a good weld looks like, look at a few pictures on the web for examples.

Always check the tow vehicles weight rating and tow capacities in the owners manual. Please note the following example,

A John Deere 1025r weighs 1,444 lbs. A 60" auto connect deck easily weighs another 300 lbs with hardware. A H120 FEL weighs close to 600 lbs.
That means a 1 series typically equipped would weigh approximately 2,200 pounds with fuel. Add the backhoe option and you are over 3,000 lbs


The LARGEST TRAILER LISTED on the Tractor Supply website is A 7' wide x 12' long open utility trailer sold at Tractor Supply has the following approximate weight limits. 2,000 payload capacity. Personally I wouldn't haul my tractor on that trailer.

The absolute MINIMUM trailer I would haul a 1 series on is the following

6'x 12' ATC Aluminum Open Trailer
The 2,900 lb Axle
515 lb Curb Weight
2,385 lb Maximum Load

Ideally, it would be the following trailer

7' x 14' ATC Aluminum Open Trailer
(2) 3,500 lb axles
7,000 lb G.V.W.R.
900 lb Curb Weight (est.)
6,100 lb Maximum Load

Check out all of the open trailer at this website. https://www.trailersuperstore.com/shop/carry-on-6-x-12-landscape-utility-trailer-7000-gvw/

The very first trailer which I found that can properly carry the 1 series tractors weight and it's the minimum length and width is the
6' x 12' Open Utility Trailer
Manufacturer - Carry On
(2) 3,500 lb Axles
7,000 lb G.V.W.R.
1,350 lb Curb weight
5,650 lb Load Limit
Asking Price $2,299

You don't want to buy a trailer where your expected load is 80% or 90% of the trailers maximum capacity. Buy one which easily exceeds your planned load amount as you will likely haul other things which will only give your trailer more flexabilty and use.
The 6' x 12' Carry On Trailer has brakes on all 4 wheels which make it much safer to haul the 2,200 lb load.

Also, note that this load of the 1 series on this trailer would weigh approximately 3,600 lbs so it would require a tow vehicle of at least a 1/2 ton pickup truck or full sized SUV to safely and properly haul it.





 
#25 ·
DOT Requirements

Good advice Sulley Bear ... Why don't you touch on the DOT requirements. Such as tie downs and binders, How to find the DOT regulations. What some State Dots are doing about use of mfr weight limits vs actual load weight! Crossing State lines! This can get to be a real can of worms.
Leo
 
#26 ·
Very nice write up SulleyBear. I only disagree with one thing - on a tandem axle trailer I find it mandatory to have brakes on both axles. In fact that is the law here in Penna. Truck or trailer must have brakes on every wheel - even tag axles.

Speaking only for myself if I had a single axle trailer I would have brakes on it though not required here.

Here in Penna the tie down law is fairly straight forward. I participated in a one day hands-on semimar with the DOT some years back.

If the unit being hauled is less than 10,000 pounds you need 2 tie downs (1 front and 1 rear). Over 10,000 pounds requires 4. In addition any implement must have its own tie down regardless of the weight of the unit. This includes permanently attached implements like a full size backhoe/loader. And all implements must be set on the trailer deck (not up in the air).

The tie downs for the unit itself must be attached to some part of the framework.

So if we are talking about a 1 series with a loader and backhoe, you would need 1 front and 1 rear tie down to the tractor itself, then 1 tie down each for the loader and backhoe totalling 4 tie downs.