I used to have a 3/8" chain, too heavy to lug around. I use 1/4" Grade 70, it can handle more than the tractor can pull before losing traction.

I also like to use 2 chains, 1st one with a shackle at one end that I use as a slip knot and nothing on the other end. 2nd chain has a grab hook to hook on the first chain and a slip hook on the other. I have a chain grab hook on the hitch of the tractor to either only hook the 1st chain only, or the 2nd chain if I use both.

 

1/4" Grade 70, it can handle more than the tractor can pull before losing traction.

I've used the same two 1/4" G70 chains since 1988, I use them a lot.
IMO 5/16" chain is way overkill for these compact tractors.

 

First thing I added to the tractor were Kenny's Bolt on Hooks and two 20' (oops, they're 16 footers) lengths of Peerless US made grade 70 transport chain in 5/16 with US made forged hooks on the end.

So far they've handled everything I need them to handle.

 

It’s handy to have a few different lengths. I have a mix of 1/4 and 5/16” chains in different lengths. I do have a pair of 20’ , but probably use a 6’ most often. I also have a mix of 1 and 2” lifting straps. It really depends on what’s being lifted, towed or tied down on what works best.

 

I have a collection of 6 or 8 5/16" Grade 70 chains. Didn't buy them for logging with but if I need to drag a log (or pull a hung tree down) that's what I use.

 

FWIW, I use the 790 a fair amount but that's the smallest tractor that I might pull with. So you can possibily get by with lighter chains but I have seen chains break under tension and it's very scary. Lots of people get hurt or worse by a flying chain so a bit overkill isn't a bad thing. That goes for the hooks as well which are frequently a failure point.

I have 5/16" and 3/8" chains in various lengths. Some short ones to tie down the tractor on the trailer. Some longer for pulling stuff. I have a choker hook on a long one with a Ken's Twist Lock hook on the other end.
9/32" (1/4") x 6 ft Logging Choker Chain - G70 Transport Chain (westechrigging.com)

Long chains get heavy so I keep a 25' length of cable in the back of my truck. That has some of Ken's Slip hooks on it. I recommend have a locking hook if you are doing any pulling as otherwise hooks become unhooked just when you are ready to take up the slack.

I use Grade 70 chain as I don't want to have to think about it should I use a chain for transport. If one breaks, the short pieces either get hooks and become short chains or they get used for other things like gate latches. I don't want to have repair links in a chain that might get stressed.

As others have said, never jerk a chain or cable. If you don't have enough HP or traction for a controlled pull, re-rig or get something different to pull with. Also be very careful when dragging items and hook low on the tractor and go slow.

 

For dragging logs I use a 3/8 choker from westechrigging.com
For general use logging chain I have several 5/16 in various length.

 

No idea what your need are but this is me...

I had two extremely handy, unrated and 30 years old 1/4" chains. One 8' one 10'. I broke both a couple years ago. I broke one with my truck snatching on a stump... the other one I broke lifting my RT3049 Tiller with my 1025R where it went over my Piranha Tooth Bar when I curled the bucket. Both of those were old tired and had been admittedly abused.

Needing legal and dependable tie down chains to haul my tractor as well as replace the ones I broke I splurged and ordered a two pack of grade 70 5/16 x 20' chains with hooks... also two extra hooks. I cut one 20' in half and added the extra hooks.

So... I ended up with one 20' and two 10' new chains... Plus I have an old unknown grade 25 foot 5/16". I also have a 75 foot long 3/8 wrecker cable for long distance work. That covers it pretty well for me....

Those short lighter weight 1/4" I do miss sometimes, they were REAL handy for non life threatening stuff LOL! I may add one later to the collection.

What I bought...
(2 pack)

Amazon.com

And

Amazon.com

 

No idea what your need are but this is me...

I had two extremely handy, unrated and 30 years old 1/4" chains. One 8' one 10'. I broke both a couple years ago. I broke one with my truck snatching on a stump... the other one I broke lifting my RT3049 Tiller with my 1025R where it went over my Piranha Tooth Bar when I curled the bucket. Both of those were old tired and had been admittedly abused.

Needing legal and dependable tie down chains to haul my tractor as well as replace the ones I broke I splurged and ordered a two pack of grade 70 5/16 x 20' chains with hooks... also two extra hooks. I cut one 20' in half and added the extra hooks.

So... I ended up with one 20' and two 10' new chains... Plus I have an old unknown grade 25 foot 5/16". I also have a 75 foot long 3/8 wrecker cable for long distance work. That covers it pretty well for me....

Those short lighter weight 1/4" I do miss sometimes, they were REAL handy for non life threatening stuff LOL! I may add one later to the collection.

What I bought...
(2 pack)

Amazon.com

And

Amazon.com

I bought the same two 5/16" chain set with the ratchet binders. They've come in handy enough times that I'm glad I got them. Both chains and binders came in one box to the Post Office, and boy was that heavy! PO Bill made me bring my jeep to the loading area and put it in the jeep for me.

 

If you could use a 1/4" grade 80 spinning chain for a day you would consider selling a chain that has common links with the scrap metal pile . Be prepared to pay up if you want the best .

 

Good , more expensive chain is lighter by an estimated 0.02 oz. / foot because the weld seams are ground off smooth .

 

I use straps more than chains but if you prefer chain 1/4" is fine. Makes no sense getting these huge chains, which are too heavy to lug around, when the tractor can't even break a 1/4".

 

Chains are better at grabbing logs, they bite into the log better, also with a slip hook it is super quick. Also dont have to worry about the bark tearing up the strap. But I use straps for things I dont want to damage, like lifting up heavy items into the bed of the truck or making sure something does not move off the forks.

 

My 6 foot chain with a grab hook/lock and slip hook are the most used chain set of all. I made it from a length of grade 70 3/8. It's been strained to the max lifting an Eco block (3500# ) with my full sized backhoe.

 

The C Hitch knot in a chain is the only thing i trust not to slip .

 

I have two 20' long 3/8" grade 70 chains and they work well for me. All of the chains we'd used growing up were 3/8" as well. That's the heaviest chain that most farm stores carry. We've never broken one.

You can approach this one of two ways. If you just want to buy one chain, get a 20-25' long 3/8" chain as a chain lasts forever unless you snap it, and you never know what you may use it for someday in the future. If you don't mind to buy multiple chains, you may look at a slightly lighter chain for a subcompact tractor as you'll likely never hurt a 1/4" or 5/16" chain with one, unless you stick your tractor and really have to yank on it with a larger tractor or truck to unstick it. On a side note, a set of decent tow straps is very handy. They are safer for unsticking things and nice to have when lifting things you don't want to tear up with a chain.

 

If you put hooks on your tractor like Bolton hooks note they are sized for 5/16" chain and will not work with 3/8" but work great with 1/4" and 5/16".

 

Minor correction, our hooks WILL hold 3/8" chain just fine, we cover that in the FAQ's.

 

I have various chains and straps, depending on what I need to do. One great thing about a FEL is it can be used to carry a chain to where you need it. As for hauling your tractor, I recommend you make sure the chain is rated at least 200%of what you are hauling. May be over kill, but better safe than sorry. Also, make sure you inspect your chains and straps every time you use them. Just because they were good the last time you used them, don't mean they still are.

Sorry, but I am big on safety. I find I don't heal nearly as fast as I used to.

 

As for hauling your tractor, I recommend you make sure the chain is rated at least 200%of what you are hauling.

On a subcompact, that's easy to do. I use 1/4" grade 70 and that's has a working load of 3100lbs. I use 4 chains, one each corner, so that's 12400 lbs. Well not quite, when it pulls on one side, the other doesn't pull. But it usually always pulls on 2 chains when stopping or accelerating, or turning left of right.

 

I have Ken's box (with lid) attached to the tractor, with a 14' 3/8" chain inside. Nice length, perfect fit. Yes, the chain is a bit heavy, but I doubt you could damage it with the 1025R even if you tried real hard.

 

Quick update: I decided to go with the 1/4" G70 chain option.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

After all the abundance of information & opinions.

here’s 1 final opinion. Keep your tugging chains away from your load securement chains and never mix them. Load securement chains only do load securement. Tugging chains do everything else. Up to and including things you probably already know you shouldn’t be doing with chains.

no hard fast rule, just a Best Management Practice (BMP) that’s been taught to me.

 

I own enough chain of different sizes, lengths, and grades to reach to the moon and back, but for the 1025R I purchased 10' of 1/4" grade 80 chain (WLL 3500#) with a grade 80 slip hook at one end and a grade 80 grab hook at the other. I also purchased one of Kenny's small chain shorteners (WLL 5400#) so I can make it any length I need. It's small, light, way strong enough, and fits in the cubby hole compartment behind the drink holder along with the shortener. It's long enough to reach around most things and if I need something longer, I get one from the shop or truck. The slip hook is used as much as the grab hook.

 

I forgot I had this hook. Pin fits perfect in the hole for a ball on the back. Hauled 2 trees today

 

My vote is 1/4"