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Opinions on Land Planes.... Do they work?

9.6K views 41 replies 17 participants last post by  theduke  
#1 ·
I have a large gravel yard to maintain as well as I have been taking care of a half mile long gravel County road that dead ends at my house.
I have a JD 4044R and I have been using a 96" landscape rake and 84" back blade to keep them in shape for the past 15 years. I am now thinking about purchasing a Land Plane. My question is: Do land planes work? What brand and what width would you recommend for my JD 4044R? Thanks in advance for you recommendations.
 
#2 ·
I have used them for years, highly recommend them.
I would suggest probably an 84" or you can pull a 96".
I have had my 96" on the back of my 3046R.
I would say a good quality made in the USA model, all brands are pretty similar, just make sure you get one with scarifiers.

My 96" is a Deere.
I also recently order a Homestead brand in a 72" made in the USA.

Land Plane Pinnacle Series - Homestead Implements
 
#4 ·
I have used them for years, highly recommend them.
I would suggest probably an 84" or you can pull a 96".
I have had my 96" on the back of my 3046R.
I would say a good quality made in the USA model, all brands are pretty similar, just make sure you get one with scarifiers.

My 96" is a Deere.
I also recently order a Homestead brand in a 72" made in the USA.

Land Plane Pinnacle Series - Homestead Implements
Thank you for the information. Greatly appreciated!!!
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have basically the same setup as you, 4044R, smaller landscape rake and 96 back blade. I purchased a Woods LGSS72P and plane several years ago. I makes life easier for sure, you don't get the choppy up and down motion like you do with just a back blade. I often use the landscape rake after I'm done to give really nice finish. I would recommend getting the blades on both sides, sometimes it works better backing up in some areas to smooth things out. Also, be careful with the rippers and utilities, in my area the phone company (ATT) only buries them 4-6 inches deep and on the side of road, sometimes in the road. As with most Woods implements the quality is very high, I'm really happy with it. Here's a link to one similar to mine, can't tell if it's used or just been sitting around in their yard. When totally loaded, I mean like dirt going over the sides of the landplane, the 4044R struggles with it, but you just lift it up a little and goes fine. It gets cleaned up on the second pass. I often get compliments on how the smooth gravel road is.

 
#5 ·
I have basically the same setup as you, 4044R, smaller landscape rake and 96 back blade. I purchased a Woods 84" Land plane several years ago. I makes life easier for sure, you don't get the choppy up and down motion like you do with just a back blade. I often use the landscape rake after I'm done to give really nice finish. I would recommend getting the blades on both sides, sometimes it works better backing up in some areas to smooth things out. Also, be careful with the rippers and utilities, in my area the phone company (ATT) only buries them 4-6 inches deep and on the side of road, sometimes in the road. As with most Woods implements the quality is very high, I'm really happy with it. Here's a link to one similar to mine, can't tell if it's used or just been sitting around in their yard. When totally loaded, I mean like dirt going over the sides of the landplane, the 4044R struggles with it, but you just lift it up a little and goes fine. It gets cleaned up on the second pass. I often get compliments on how the smooth gravel road is.

Thank you! I appreciate all the information
 
#6 ·
For the job you describe, you will love it. Hands down the best implement for maintaining a road, much more so than a box blade. I use mine very often, as much as any other implement. I would invest in a solid, good quality plane for longevity and resist the temptation to purchase a lesser quality attachment.
 
#7 ·
Sight correction, the land plane is actually a 72" (Woods LGSS72P). Sorry, I was to lazy get up and look at what I actually had, I was nice and cozy with the dogs and a fire going in the woodstove. Here's some pics of my actual landplane to make up for that.
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#8 ·
I also have a similar setup, a 4066R. I have about 700' of gravel driveway and absolutely love my land plane. It is a Frontier 84" but the tractor could certainly handle the 96" with ease. I like to keep a crown on the steep upper part of my driveway. The section with the crown is a little narrower (14' to 16') than the lower part (20'+). The 84" width works well for me in the sectons with the crown whereas the 96" might cut into the crown or dig up some of the shoulder/ditch.

I have no need for tines on my land plane since I have a box blade with tines on my smaller 955 tractor. Since the land plane has no moving parts or hydraulics, I don't feel the brand will make a huge difference. Any quality manufacturer should fill your needs unless you plan on doing a lot of commercial work then it might pay to go with something a little more heavy duty.

I don't think you will ever regret getting a land plane. It is such a time saver and does a MUCH better job than a box blade or scraper blade.

Good luck,
Sparky in Maine
 
#19 ·
Thank you for the information. I know the JD dealer I bought my tractor from said an 84" would be too big for my JD 4044R. But I think that was mainly due to the fact he had 72" land planes in stock and wanted to sell them before ordering any more. Now I know the 4044R can be pretty anemic to some, but I came from a little 34 hp Kubota to this 44 hp JD that also has more weight by far. So the Kubota seemed very scrappy in that it would spin and dig and try. This little anemic JD gets along fine for me. I settled on the 4044R because with all the Regen worries I wanted to make sure I got a tractor that I would be sure to work hard enough to avoid unnecessary regen issues. I don't have enough big jobs to even make your 4066 know its even pulling anything.
 
#9 ·
I DIYed my landplane,, it is somewhat different than the typical purchased one.

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The sides are 1/2 X 12 inch steel, the runners are 1X3 solid bar, the cross tubes are 1/4 thick.
The frame is HEAVY

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Then there is the blade,, my blades were acquired new, they are the blades for a 14 foot CAT motor grader.
The two 7 foot long blades are a little taller than normal,, and 5/8" thick.

Well, I got the first pair of blades in the frame, and I HAD to try it.
It works perfectly. Actually, I like it so much, I never installed the second pair of motor grader blades.

I think I am happy with it because the weight is close to double a typical landplane,, and there is only one pair of blades.

Since there is more weight, and only one cutting edge, that edge gets something like 4 times as much down force as compared to a typical purchased unit.
Beyond that, I have several hundred pounds of suitcase weights I can add.

This thing will REALLY cut in.

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In this next pic, you can see the "tan" color on the steel cross bars,, I have filled the landplane up over the cross bars on several occasions. The "tan" is where wet gravel or dirt was higher than the frame.

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In the above pic, I had about ~300 pounds of suitcase weights attached to the landplane.
(That is why the ropes are tied to the frame of the landplane)

I still have all the parts to add the second pair of cutting edges,,
maybe some day I will try it like that.
 
#11 ·
great tools
Better with Top & tilt...but not nessessary.

I have a 12' wide one that was used in a filbert orchard......it makes the road flat and nice but you usually need gravel for the low spots.
 
#12 ·
Land planes are the best implement for maintaining gravel roads IMO. I have 4044r with 6’ Grademaster. I can easily pull a much wider blade but I like keeping my implement width to 6’ because I work my tractor in the woods and have to maneuver thru some tight spots. Make sure you get scarifiers. They are very useful for busting up compacted material and pulling up grass.
 
#13 ·
I used a rollover box blade before getting my HDGRB96, and hands down, I do a much better job with the landplane than I ever could with the blade. I almost bet I saved enough money from getting more gravel to pay for the landplane. It does a fantastic job at pulling back up the gravel. As for the size, would make sure to cover the stance of your rear tires more than as there will be times that you spin a wheel & having the blades extend the width is nice.

I also have the hydraulic top/tilt configured to use the diverter, so my loader joystick controls the angles, and that makes it so nice to feather out while driving.

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Here was the after for the first time that I used it. I did make the mistake of having my grapple on & it caused me to rock a bit, so I always make sure to have nothing on the loader.

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#14 ·
I use a Woods GS54 Land Plane behind my JD770. It's only 54" wide but does a beautiful job on our 1/2 mile long stone road to our property entrance. I finish off the road after land planing with a 6ft Tarter Landscaping Rake with depth control wheels attached. Once a month we groom the road.

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#18 ·
Yes, a landplane is worth it if you have gravel to maintain. Its ability to float and resist washboarding makes them almost idito proof to run. I have an EA 6' that I run on my 3039r. Its very well made and does a super nice job.

I dont know that one brand is gonna be better than the next. The woods units are HD looking, and there are a lot of frontier and landpride landplanes out there working too. EA is gone now, so dont order from them.

An 8' should be just fine behind your machine. Couple it with a hydraulic top link and you will have a very nice tool. They also work great for final grading black dirt.
 
#23 ·
This is my 96" Deere on the back of my 3046R.
I would tend to agree with your thoughts, that your dealer wanted to move the 72" models he had in stock. lol
A 4044R should easily handle a 84".
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#27 ·
Several years ago Road boss offered to demo their unit at my farm. I maintain a 1/4 mile of gravel driveway. I used a neighbors back blade previously. I would spend a lot of time putting humps and dips into the road and then struggling to smooth it out. The Road Boss performance was so impressive I bought it on the spot. Two round trips is all it takes to get a smooth, crowned and pretty driveway.

There are a few feature to look for in a LP. Adjustable depth between the runners and blades. The blades wear and one needs to compensate. Be aware a LP full of gravel is a lot to pull. My unloaded Deere 5200 runs out of traction in two WD. SO 4WD is needed. The runners also need hard facing. Gravel is very abrasive.

A tip shared by the RoadBoss guy. As you come to the end of the drive, make a sharp turn to the left as you lift the LP. This dumps any gravel in the LP in a line in the middle of the drive. Then it's easy to reverse and start back the drive with the LP not leaving a hump of gravel.
 
#28 ·
While shopping different brands, compare the weight. Heavier is better for a land plane. As I mentioned in my previous reply, I have a 6’ Grademaster, which is well made. I still added a weight rack to it to improve grading on hard packed limestone and packed clay. I can stack 6 40lb saddle weights. A Land plane is not going to max out the weight capacity on your 3pt…..

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#31 ·
Keep your

Keep your box blade as it's probably heavier. You can use it's shanks to break up the gravel if needed. Then put on the land plane to smooth it.
I have a 7' land plane on the front of my skid steer. Too be honest I don't think it was worth it over my rear grader blade on my tractor or just using the bucket and backgrading.. It does fill in the potholes if there are any but it you look down the road you can see waves in it. Lows seem to stay low and higher areas high. I think I am going to have to get my box blade out and try it.

Having said this, I have a 72" Frontier land plane on order for a 2038R that I am getting. Going to take both to our Colorado vacation home and maintain the long driveway there. Before I go I am going to try it on the driveway here and see if it works better than the front mounted one on my compact track loader
 
#32 ·
As said, a land plane is worth every penny and add weight to really make it work for you. Something not said here is the angle of the cutter bars, meaning one side further towards the rear of the frame vs the opposite side. In looking at these various photos, the Frontier seems to have more of an angle than the others and this is really important when cutting out washboard or pot holes. I have one that my Father built but looks similar to the ones already shown. I added about 10 railroad ties and that sucker really cuts. I do think that adding a section of chain from one side to the other that drags along behind will help knock down the clumps of gravel that pour over the top of the second cutter bar.
 
#33 ·
. I do think that adding a section of chain from one side to the other that drags along behind will help knock down the clumps of gravel that pour over the top of the second cutter bar.
'

WAY back when, I built a drag specifically for knocking down manure piles in our field.

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It did OK, but that changed to GREAT after I added a set of dual wheel truck chains behind the drag.

It also does a real nice job of grooming gravel on the driveway.

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#39 ·
The LP dresses the road by bringing the stone to the top and sifting the fines below. The key is having the gravel flow over the Scraper blades. My RoadBoss doesn't have rippers. Instead, the first blade is serrated to cut into the road. I have it set about 3/4 inch below the skid plates. It will not dig into the subgrade in one or two passes.
 
#42 ·
Yes they work.

Build or buy...I got both.....Top And tilt is a game changer for these.