If you use the factory supplied connectors at the bottom of the rops your aftermarket lights will only turn on in the last position of the light switch, you won't be able to have your hazards on at the same time. Probably not an issue for you but since I would like to be able to use my hazards when plowing snow I like the idea of the rear lights on a separate switch.

 

Anyone have a coupon code for Kenny's stuff?

 

I believe he accepts TTWT

 

Thanks Poppi. thats my bad, i should have known that.

On order. I'll post some new photos and results when the brackets arrive and i have some time to finish the project.

these will work perfectly. i hope i ordered the right size? Kenny?

 

Thanks Poppi. thats my bad, i should have known that.

NO bad involved. That's what friends do for friends. I'm glad I could help.

 

You probably need the 2-3/8" size, you need to verify that (when football is over of course).

As far as wiring, I personally prefer having independent control of lights vs on with the headlights.

 

2-3/8” square is confirmed on this new 2025

 

Spent some time today trying to figure out how to run a seperate circuit for the rear facing lights. Decided that i want to be able to have them off at most times. I've grabbed the NiLights connection harness meant for Jeeps and looked around in the engine compartment and firewall area to come up with a wiring plan.

I have a fused connection for the battery that has a relay inline. I'll use that in the battery compartment and plan on running the switch (RED scribble)and leads (Blue scribble) for the lights back through the engine compartment and into the dash for the switch installed into the spot where the blank cover is just below the headlights switch. I'll continue the Leads for the lights under the floor boards terminating them into the rear facing LED's and wrapping the wires into the existing bundle. I'm out of connectors so this will have to wait until tommorow. The new forward facing LED's will be terminated into the bullet connectors that are operated by the headlight switch. mounted using Kenny's square ROPS clamps.

Feels like a good plan. Anyone have any experience with this type of wiring that could shoot a few holes in the plan? I'm trying to stay as far away from heat sources as possible and plan on jacketing all exposed wire.

I'm assuming that the port i found behind the switch panel is for diagnistics? (purple scribble)

 

Plug in purple is for a mower independent lift. It would go to a rocker switch that you can see the cover for just straight below your light control switch.

 

Sure would be nice if JD would have included a switched and an unswitched power tap on the fuse block.

 

I looked at the fuse block and was hoping to work something from that point. Decided to work from the battery back.

What I would really prefer is to install the switch near the cigarette charger port on the joystick side of the cockpit instead of on the dashboard. Looking at the pod area around the joystick, I couldn’t figure out how to take the black cover off of the green fender to access that panel in order to cut a hole and run the wire. I would also wire up another switch for my tow behind sprayer while apart.

does anyone have any tips on how to remove that black panel? I had the 2 bolts out from the cup holder and storage area. All that did was allow the black under fender assembly to be removed.

 

I looked at the fuse block and was hoping to work something from that point. Decided to work from the battery back.

What I would really prefer is to install the switch near the cigarette charger port on the joystick side of the cockpit instead of on the dashboard. Looking at the pod area around the joystick, I couldn’t figure out how to take the black cover off of the green fender to access that panel in order to cut a hole and run the wire. I would also wire up another switch for my tow behind sprayer while apart.

does anyone have any tips on how to remove that black panel? I had the 2 bolts out from the cup holder and storage area. All that did was allow the black under fender assembly to be removed.

See this thread:

Remove the black cover " Bezel "

I am trying to remove the black cover to move the electrical line for the light. I see 2 cup holder bolts and they are out now. Has anybody removed this before? This cover will not budge.

www.greentractortalk.com

 

Following. Keep us posted. Why did JD do that I wonder?

 

Updates and finishing of the LED's

finished the install and wiring today. Front and rear LED's now in place and wired in.

Decided to use a dashmount switch for the rear LED's. Switches here

I'm not going to show all the steps to run the wires from the battery compartment to the dash. It was tedious and time consuming but i looked for a wire bundle and followed it. just took some time but was worth it to seperate the rear LED's from the fronts.

For the front facing LED's i decided to use one of Kenny's ROPS clamps. Great decision, worked perfectly and made the front LED's really easy to mount. The #8 allen fastener that comes with the clamps fits the NiLights bracket perfectly. Clamps Here

Wiring the front LED's was basic, i used bullet connectors and wired them directly into the supplied harness located on either side of the rear PTO. Works really well. The light switch on the dash is 3 position - 1st is yellow flashing hazards, 2nd position is headlights and red and black hazards, 3rd position activates the front facing LED's. Really good thinking by John Deere to provide that connection.

Results at night
stock versus LED's on

really happy with the results.