20 years ago, somebody gave me an unopened 5 gallon can of 90WT.

I lube everything like that with 90WT.

I reuse the quart bottles the synthetic comes in,,

Inject some 90WT in the hole opposite the push button, and see how easy the pto works then!! :thumbup1gif:

Coat the splines with 90WT,,, that really stops rust.

This is the time of year I put 90WT on the seal of sealed bearings that are in idler pulleys.

The mowers run MUCH quieter the following season,,, the 90WT just creeps past the seal,,,

I was actually gonna start a thread about lubing sealed bearings,,, :dunno:

 

Old or new, PTO couplers and shafts can be bear for anyone under 6 feet tall with 18" biceps. One of the things I've been doing is sliding apart my PTO shafts, wiping off the old grease, and re-greasing with "marine grade" grease from TSC (my implements sit outside). I've learned from experience that old and over-greased shafts like to stick together and get grease locked. Then you are banging on them with a hammer and screwdriver to get them sliding again. No thank you.

Also, I hit the universal joints with the grease gun and spray some fluid film on the detent button, spring and pin to keep them moving freely.

 

Yep, fluid film is a good friend.

 

X2 ! Works wonders and less messy than grease.

 

So, any of y'all found something that makes it as easy as it should be? Do tell!!

What Tonton said.:good2:
At least once, better twice a year, clean off the old grease.
I wipe down "the works" including the spline shaft from the tractor with 30 weight oil, gets the old grease
off pretty easily and re-grease everything with a light coating of JD "blue" grease (the one for use in high moisture areas).
Messy and about a half roll of paper towels, but worth it.

 

I use a solvent like PB Blaster - spray both the PTO shaft and inside the driveshaft coupler. Then take a kitchen scrubby pad and or toothbrush size detail brush to all the surfaces to remove any rust or debris. Then dry it all off with a rag and a liberal coating of Fluid Film. Also work the push pin in and out with both the solvent then the Fluid Film. Then before the first use in the spring I'll do the same thing before the first use.

Only takes a couple minutes but a neccessity for me as I need things like this to glide on and off smoothly or it ain't going to happen.

 

X3 on the Fluid Film![emoji106]?


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Wanted to add this - something I found when having trouble with connecting a PTO shaft -

When I installed my iMatch hitch (why did I wait so long...??) I had to modify the hook up on my older Bush Hog. All went well then went to hook it up after I did the above process of cleaning up and lubing the PTO shaft and coupler. It would slide on to the shaft just fine but for some reason wouldn't go on quite far enough to catch the latch. I redid my cleaning and lubing a couple more times but still no joy.

My PTO shaft is completely enclosed with one of those plastic safety covers but does have access holes for greasing - and I always had greased the center point on the shaft where it slides in and out. After fighting with it for long enough I went through the nasty process of removing the safety cover. Here the shaft was binding up not letting it slide apart enough even though I had always greased it. Because of the extra 3" or so of length of the PTO shaft needed because of the iMatch hitch it wouldn't go slide past where it normally ran for so many years.

So now also as part of the clean up and lubing I make sure I slide the shaft in and out a few times while giving some more grease to be sure it slides freely. I wish there was an easy way to spray the slide joint with Fluid Film like I can do with the PTO shaft on my belly mower.

Now between the iMatch and the properly working drive shaft on my Bush Hog it is so easy to hook up and remove even with my crippled up hands/arms. Just another part of that little extra preventative maintenance that I do with most everything now - sure makes life easier!

 

Think I'll mention Fluid Film. :thumbup1gif:
Like others have said, Good Stuff.

 

Well dang it, never used Fluid Film, never heard of Fluid Film, but if Gizmo says it's good stuff, I'll have to get some and try it.
After the Gimbal Ratchet fiasco, he just might be right about this stuff.

Let it not be said that Old Cajun is not a wild and crazy guy.:lol:

 

Well dang it, never used Fluid Film, never heard of Fluid Film, but if Gizmo says it's good stuff, I'll have to get some and try it.
After the Gimbal Ratchet fiasco, he just might be right about this stuff.

Let it not be said that Old Cajun is not a wild and crazy guy.

well all jd dealers handle fluid film it is good stuff, I use it too. I too start out with PB BLASTER and finish up with my fluid film, does a good job. I too love my I-match, but my arms are not long enough when I have it raised up, have to leave it down so I attach the driveline to pto. still love the I-match!! big jim

 

Saw that NAPA and Autozone also handles it.
Was looking at some reviews, seems like good stuff, probably pick some up my next trip to town.

 

O'Reilly's carries Fluid Film also. Just picked up a can a few days ago from them.

Dave

 

I can't add much more than has already been mentioned. The 3PH driveline components can get pretty mucked-up due to the sticky lubrication and dust. The spring loaded yoke locks are stiff for a reason. To keep them from slipping off the pto stub shaft. Rather than using a heavy, sticky grease to lubricate the slip yokes you're better off keeping it clean and using a light, easily soluble lubricant. Fluid film for open shafts or a water soluble grease rated for food processing equipment that can be rinsed clean.

 

I can't add much more than has already been mentioned. The 3PH driveline components can get pretty mucked-up due to the sticky lubrication and dust. The spring loaded yoke locks are stiff for a reason. To keep them from slipping off the pto stub shaft. Rather than using a heavy, sticky grease to lubricate the slip yokes you're better off keeping it clean and using a light, easily soluble lubricant. Fluid film for open shafts or a water soluble grease rated for food processing equipment that can be rinsed clean.

i use old chainsaw oil, the stuff you add to the gas.

 

Appreciate the warning, coaltrain! I am planning to stop and get some on the way home from work. I might have fainted when seeing the price! :drama:

 

i had to remove the button because it simply didnt work. i pulled it out, ran it over a bench grinder and reinstalled. works good now, never hangs up or anything.

i typically grease the universal joints every 8-12 hrs of use, mostly because im paranoid about them breaking again. i just give them a light shot of high heat lithium from tsc. one thing that speeds the process is to not turn on the pto without the implement hooked up, to see if it works or something. also, i wait to install the toplink until i hook up the shaft.

 

The last time I bought Fluid Film I bought a 6 pack. Ended up giving two cans away to friends that had never heard of it.

 

The last time I bought Fluid Film I bought a 6 pack. Ended up giving two cans away to friends that had never heard of it.

Dieselshadow probably wondering where his can is...................................Just saying.:lol:

 

FG, "ya all" might stop in at the local welding supply store and ask for a stainless steel toothbrush. They work wonderful for scrubbing inside those coupler bores and splines.

 

The files in a chainsaw chain sharpening kit work nice to put a chamfer on the spline coupler too.

Another nice thing, if you can't use a quick hitch, check and see if telescoping link arms are available for your tractor. This was the absolute best $300 investment I made when moving up to the 4 series machine. Implements get too heavy to wiggle around and get lined up with the link arms. The telescoping arms make up the difference with just a pull on the latch. Once hooked up just back the tractor up a smidgen and they lock right in.

Just a thought...

 

Agreed



Telescoping arms are the first thing I missed when I bought my 790. I'm used to having them on larger tractors and the combination of rigid arms and tight spaces was frustrating. The implements are smaller and can be moved but it offends me to tug and pull just to hook up an implement. $300 is a bit pricey though, wish they were cheaper. I've compromised and usually set stuff down on old boards with used oil on them. Stuff slides pretty easy then.

Treefarmer

 

I picked up the Fluid Film on the way home yesterday. I guess that I know what I'll be doing when I get home from the airport tomorrow.

I already have PB Blaster, so will get it all cleaned, and coat with Fluid Film, and grease all zerks on the tractor and all implements, while I am at it. Probably even do an oil change too. After all, once I touch the grease gun, I'm going to be covered anyway, so may as well go all out! I should know how much it helped the disconnect/connect issue in 4 months, when I go to put the brush hog back on.

A really huge THANKS for all ideas and suggestions! And for anyone else that has something that works for them, please post it!

 

I found a nifty little replacement kit at Farm and Fleet that comes with the pushbutton and the spring. I got to thinking about how a spring is actually a mechanical part and has a life cycle like any other while modifying an old screw type log splitter to work behind the 1025R, and for $3.00 I thought the kit was easier than trying to refurbish a 30 year old button!!

 

Dunno about you guys, but I get dirt and mung all over the shaft and coupler.

If there is any grease or oil anywhere exposed, it makes a slurry.

I slap dri-slide on the PTO shaft, and keep it dry. Couplings get spritzed with Fluid film, or Chainsaw Bar oil, and then dried off, and a good dose of Dri-slide.

Everything gets a coat of Bar oil or fluid film, when put up for the season.

Those little locking balls in the Woods couplings, are the most belligerent things ever invented. They don't like to work at all with mung in them.
The chainsaw file is a great idea for new couplings...next new one, I'll have to give it a shot.

What I can't figure out, is how the PTO can always be 1/8 turn off...every time. It just doesn't make sense.:dunno:

 

What I can't figure out, is how the PTO can always be 1/8 turn off...every time. It just doesn't make sense.:dunno:

No kidding! This is just about the most frustrating part of hooking up. My 1025R had a mid rear and NEUTRAL position on the selection lever. Neutral gave me the ability to freely rotate the PTO spline shaft on the rear to help with this unexplainable constant within the tractor universe, but the 4105 does not have a mid PTO so I guess there is no reason (in the mind of JD engineers) to install a selector lever at all. No neutral! Gosh, I hope they read these threads on GTT. They might learn something.

 

Before putting away any equipment for the season, I scrape off any excess grease and I rub down all important parts with used oil. A rag or an old toothbrush works great to smear it around. Plus, it is free and I have a lot of it. The problem with oil is that it needs to be removed when the equipment goes back into service otherwise it will be a dirt magnet... but that's what PurplePower is for.

As far as physically hooking up the pto, I like to use a toothbrush sized wire brush soaked in a light oil to clean out the splines on both the tractor and implement. A few swipes at every hookup and I have never had an issue.

 

Yep switching to the rear pto when installing the mmm with the auto pto hook up makes life much nicer. Wonder why the JD engineers did not write that into the installation instructions? Have not had the deck twist since.

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I only have one implement with a push button pto mounting system, my post hole digger..
All my other JD drive shafts are the spring loaded ring with ball bearing retainers..

It took a while to clean all the nooks and crannies with solvent and a brush, but all are squeaky clean and dry..
Also the gooey black paint that is used on things like this is a pain in the neck to remove, but once done makes attachment, and removing much easier..

For lube I only use a liberal shot of silicone spray, spray lube on the moving parts before mounting, before removal, before storing.. I use the cheap lubes when they are on sale from the local farm supply.. Dirt/sand, other accumulation and issues like that has never been a problem so far.. Has worked well so far for me..

Your millage may vary..
Good luck..

 

Finally remembered to get a can of Fluid Film that a lot of folks recommended on this thread,
GOOD STUFF.:good2: