Soak it with your favorite lube.
Leave shear bolt out and run it till shaft spins.

Look on Mower side of rear U-joint.
Does the Gear box shaft poke through yoke?
Is there a snap ring on it?
The newer ones have this snap ring to keep the driveline captive.

I'm guessing no but take a look.

Keep an eye on it and run it slow.
Be prepared to kill PTO.

This is seat of your pants farming @ your own risk.

 

Dukes version would work. Do check for a snap ring of some sort. Maybe for a little more safety use a smaller diameter shear bolt for when it does come loose. Spray it down with penetrating oil (not WD40) and do it 2-3x a day. It might take a while to get it loose. Smacking it with a hammer will help the penetrating oil get in there and knock the rust loose. An air hammer would be useful if you have one, otherwise swing away.
Another option would be to disassemble u-joint and remove the shaft then use a slide hammer on what’s left. Maybe some combination of all these?

 

A quick internet search for an operators manual didn’t give me anything. BUT there was a post on a different forum with someone with same issue. He said there is a snap ring holding the shaft on.

 

I like His Idea of a "tiny " shear bolt...heavy zip tie..wire ,rope..etc.

If you let the mower do the work......less hammering on bearings.

Look for that captive ring if it exists.

Thats a lot of overlap and is likely rusted good.

If you have a heat source thats the quick easy to get things moving.

Put a soakiong wet rag over input/output shaft of gear box so the seal don't get cooked.

 

Next gen of Woods has it...I got one.....93 vintage.
Similar deck..different rear wheel..different bracing above deck.

 

Would a cutting wheel be a reasonable way to go?

 

I guess..
I assumed the old shaft is still good.
Not sure why the change.......Thats a $200 driveline.

Could easily put a slice in it and drive a chisel /airhammer in the slice to open that sleave.
Seems like a waste.

 

Forgot that Woods Customer service emailed me the manual a few weeks back….thank you for the suggestions. So it looks like #3 ha to come off first? Or does it matter?

 

Work backwards from the list in your next post following the quoted post.

 

 

Is something afoul with the existing shaft..?
Or

You just want to use the new one?

It may need cut as well..looks maybe long in the one pic

 

Show a pic of the end of new shaft that fits gear box.

That diagram...... Never seen a set up like that.

New ones have none of that stuff
Gear box /snapring/driveline/shearbolt

Your taking this apart why again?

 

Will get a picture when I’m back out there. Not sure what happened to the other half of the shaft. It wasn’t here when I bought the place. Yes, I think the new one will need to be cut to length as well (assuming it fits).

I’ve got some tight spots that are difficult to put theTW72 on. If I can get this Smaller one working for $0.00 I’ll either try it out or see if someone else needs one.

 

Use another "half" of a similar driveline.
Is it triangular shaped?......There are at least 3 sizes++
Rectangular?
Square?
This is the slip area I'm talking about

Do you have other implements that you could "borrow" that Tractor side half from?

 

Thought about that but the shafts don’t match….. looking back at the first picture, I don’t see how I could even get the retaining clip out with the clearance there….

 

Remove the plastic shield for more access.
Check at a farm store for the part of the PTO shaft you need. They usually sell each piece individually.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/pto%20shaft?

 

That is an odd arrangement of useless parts.....Its been simplified .

I'd hunt down a Cheap shaft you can rob the tractor side half from.

More pics of the new /old ...will help..when you get to it.

I've collected every old junk there is...once in a while I can piece something together.
There were lots of goofy things happening till things kinda standardized with this triangular tube crap.
Old school square was nice...but shortening/lengthening was more of a pita...the actual "slip joint" section was only 4" typicly.....others were different with full length slip from end to end.
Then Cat 2 was rectangular.........it don't end there.

Keep in mind..the triangular tube types are "keyed".....they only fit in one of the 3 possible ways.
one little burr ...can play games with getting them to slide together.

 

…..several months later of banging and on blaster, the old shaft and yoke is off. New shaft yoke is size to fit the mower without the inner sleeve (#9). The inner sleeve is held on with two quarter by quarter pins.

I’ve been spraying the PB Blaster. How do I remove the inner sleeve?