[Arsenix2001]

If you use the stud technique you can do it all pretty easily.

1. Break lugs free.
2. Put machine in gear.
3. Jack machine up so that both rear tires are an inch or two off the ground.
4. Take out 1 lug bolt.
5. Put stud in place of removed lug.
6. Remove remaining lugs
7. Turn tire/wheel until it drops to floor. wiggle off and roll out of the way.
8. Do whatever you are doing.
9. Make sure stud is back in place.
10. Roll wheel into place. Rotate stud to align with a lug hole in wheel and push wheel on to stud
11. Go to opposite side of machine and rotate tire until the stud on the wheel you are working on is in the 12 O'clock position. That tire should lift off the ground. Wedge something (a piece of 2x4 works!) under tire to hold position.
12. Go back and push wheel on to hub.
13. Insert lugs. Remove stud.


Repeat on opposite side. Once both sides are done, drop machine from jack and tighten all lugs to proper torque.

As far as I can tell, all of the Deere compacts are hub centric so the wheels will rest on the hub center while you play with the lugs.

Forgive my ignorance here. The wheel spacer will bolt on with the original wheel bolts, but the wheel spacer appears to studs for lug nuts. Once I put the wheel spacer on does that mean I need to remove one of the lug studs out of the spacer to replace with a longer alignment stud to pull the wheel back up?

 

[fdmars]

On my 3 series there are no lug nuts, tire use bolts to attach to hub, not studs. Same for spacers

 

[Arsenix2001]

Hmmm ok that would make alot more sense and its how my 2038 is. Guess I'm seeing the photos wrong.

 

[Treefarmer]

If you use the stud technique you can do it all pretty easily.

1. Break lugs free.
2. Put machine in gear.
3. Jack machine up so that both rear tires are an inch or two off the ground.
4. Take out 1 lug bolt.
5. Put stud in place of removed lug.
6. Remove remaining lugs
7. Turn tire/wheel until it drops to floor. wiggle off and roll out of the way.
8. Do whatever you are doing.
9. Make sure stud is back in place.
10. Roll wheel into place. Rotate stud to align with a lug hole in wheel and push wheel on to stud
11. Go to opposite side of machine and rotate tire until the stud on the wheel you are working on is in the 12 O'clock position. That tire should lift off the ground. Wedge something (a piece of 2x4 works!) under tire to hold position.
12. Go back and push wheel on to hub.
13. Insert lugs. Remove stud.


Repeat on opposite side. Once both sides are done, drop machine from jack and tighten all lugs to proper torque.

As far as I can tell, all of the Deere compacts are hub centric so the wheels will rest on the hub center while you play with the lugs.

Great procedure!

 

[Bosbar]

You need a couple of these. Get em' at Harbor Freight.

 

[MTB98]

I’m in favor of not having the tire on something with wheels. Just wiggle it around to move it and don’t let it tip over. Much better if you can have a helper or two with you just in case.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

You need a couple of these. Get em' at Harbor Freight.
View attachment 832975

The problem with the standard Go-Jack types is that they're not wide enough for tractor tires, especially larger ones (I believe the one picture here is only 9" wide at the roller). The fixed tire dollies I noted above work very well for me. With the tractor in neutral you can easily rotate the hub the align the studs. You can even use a ratchet strap to help keep the tire on the dolly during alignment.

 

[wildbranch2007]

The problem with the standard Go-Jack types is that they're not wide enough for tractor tires, especially larger ones (I believe the one picture here is only 9" wide at the roller). The fixed tire dollies I noted above work very well for me. With the tractor in neutral you can easily rotate the hub the align the studs. You can even use a ratchet strap to help keep the tire on the dolly during alignment.

the one I have is 20" wide, but has the price tag to prove it.

 

[Arsenix2001]

Brotek spacers came in. Look nice. But again as I mentioned they have lug nuts. Not seeing how that whole stud idea would work out here unless you used a nut and a coupling but not sure I would want to put that much stress on the lug nut. Guess I'm going to have to just play with the jack and the furniture dolly and get everything lined up very carefully.

 

[PaDave]

You understand that the spacer gets bolted to the axle flange with the new longer provided bolts, right? Then the wheel slips over the protruding studs .
Those studs are pressed clear through the spacer from the back side, so it's a very strong mounting system.
Don't forget to use some Loctite 242 (blue) on the bolts that go into the axle flange.

 

[Arsenix2001]

You understand that the spacer gets bolted to the axle flange with the new longer provided bolts, right? Then the wheel slips over the protruding studs .
Those studs are pressed clear through the spacer from the back side, so it's a very strong mounting system.
Don't forget to use some Loctite 242 (blue) on the bolts that go into the axle flange.

Yes, thats not the question I had. Earlier poster mentioned the tire still used wheel bolts. Also mentioned using a stud in one hole to lift the tire and aid in removal. That would work in a stock configuration but not with wheel spacers.

 

[JimR]

Yes, thats not the question I had. Earlier poster mentioned the tire still used wheel bolts. Also mentioned using a stud in one hole to lift the tire and aid in removal. That would work in a stock configuration but not with wheel spacers.

Yeah. I'm not sure what you could do in place of a long stuff if the spacers already have studs. I haven't had that situation to deal with.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Yes, thats not the question I had. Earlier poster mentioned the tire still used wheel bolts. Also mentioned using a stud in one hole to lift the tire and aid in removal. That would work in a stock configuration but not with wheel spacers.

Lift the tire and rotate the hub to line up the studs and place the tire on. No different than putting a tire on a car/truck, except with loaded tire they're hard to rotate that's why you turn the hub to align.

 

[Arsenix2001]

Well it wasn't fun, took about an hour and a half but managed to wrestle them off and on myself. Got the spacers installed. They worked out well. Key was using a bottle pump jack that was accurate enough to align the studs. Thanks for the tips everyone.

 

[ttazzman]

Well it wasn't fun, took about an hour and a half but managed to wrestle them off and on myself. Got the spacers installed. They worked out well. Key was using a bottle pump jack that was accurate enough to align the studs. Thanks for the tips everyone.

View attachment 834136
View attachment 834139
View attachment 834138
View attachment 834137

so what did you end up with width wise outside to outside of tire ?

 

[Arsenix2001]

so what did you end up with width wise outside to outside of tire ?

Its at close to 75" outside of sidewall to sidewall. Actual contact patch of the tread on the ground seems to be right at 72".

 

[alpha&omega]

Looks good. Nice work.

For any new readers: What @MarkEagleUSA was referring to is using a long bolt or even a stud alignment tool (they can be found on Amazon - 14x1.5 and longer lug bolts if someone wanted to use locknuts on the back side 14x1.5x45mm).

However, if you have spacers like the OP - with press fitted studs - it’s much easier and you don’t have to monkey with lug bolts or locknuts.