I would try a ball joint separator. They have them for free at most auto parts stores. get the kind that has a bolt you clamp down, not a pickle fork.

 

You probably need a pickle fork. You can probably borrow some from the local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts stores.

Here is a YouTube video that shows a method for if you don't have forks. Be careful, you don't want to bugger the ends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_JzIdlolfg

 

I would use a pickle fork. It'll come right off. The right tool for the right job.:usa:greentractorride:

 

Hyd bottle jack under the threaded end of tie rod, putting good amount of lift pressure on it and whack the side piece with a heavy hammer. Don’t have time to really explain right now.

 

DO NOT UTILIZE A PICKLE FORK!!!!! You'll damage the seat in the tie rod end and will have to replace it in the immediate future. Utilize a tie rod puller. A ball joint puller, as johnH123 mentioned, may also work. I believe he is also recommending not to utilize a pickle fork.

The only instance where I would utilize a pickle fork on a tie rod end is when it is worn out and I'm replacing it.

 

They will tear up the boot too. Agreed, only use a pickle fork to remove a junk ball joint.

 

x2 on the pickle fork. They're really meant for ball joints, not tie rod ends.

I don't know anyone who uses an actual puller, though I suppose they might be useful if you own one. There are 2 ways that work for me:

1. Use two hammers and bang the knuckle on either side of the tie rod end tapered shaft. This works every time without fail as long as there is room to swing the hammers.
2. If there is no room for hammers, put a thick nut on the tie rod end and thread it ALMOST all the way on. Smack it with a hammer. If you don't know what you're doing this runs the risk of munging the threads. If you're going to replace the end anyway, just do this.

Al

 

This is the instructions from my 2720 manual. I'm sure the tie rods are the same on all the small tractors.

Tie Rod Removal and Installation

Removal:

1. Remove cotter pin (A) and castle nut (B) from each
rod end attaching tie rod to spindle arm.

2. Using a ball joint separator, disconnect ball joint end
from spindle arm (C). Remove tie rod.

Installation:

1. If installing previously used tie rod, inspect rubber
boots. If boot(s) are damaged, or in poor condition,
replace boot(s).

2. Insert threaded end of ball joint into hole in spindle
arm.

3. Install castle nut to rod end.

4. Tighten castle nut to specification.

5. Install cotter pin.

6. Lubricate tie rod end using generalpurpose
grease. Follow lubrication procedure outlined in the
maintenance section of the operator’s manual.

 

Take credit card to nearest chain auto parts store, "rent" (aka: borrow on deposit) their puller sets for both gear and tie rod ends, do the job, then return the rented tools for full refund.

I use a credit card because then the funds aren't really tied up from your bank account while they hold the deposit on the card.

You don't have to buy anything from Autozone, CARQUEST, Napa, O'Reilly's, etc to rent their specialty tools for free. At least not around here. Just walk in and tell them what you're doing and what you want. You can even bring your replacement end(s) with you to help size the tools if you need to.


I actually bought a specialty tie-rod puller and the darn thing is only good for like 3 cars. Waste of money these days, but the chain stores didn't offer the free stuff then like they do now and it did get that job done without needing to pay someone else more than the tool cost to do the job.

 

You guys are great. I now have an idea on how and where i need to do this. Ill see if i can borrow from Autozone to get them apart. Sounds like the best way at this point.

 

Also, what will work many times is, take a hammer and hit the end of the steering arm where the taper part of the tie rod end goes though. This sudden force on the end of the steering arm unseats the taper.

 

Looks like there are more modern ways of doing it nowadays. You better listen to them folks.

 

Actually, anyone that has done tie rod or ball joint replacement on a regular basis, knows that if you hit the end of the steering arm where the tie rod seats, or the upper or lower control arm at the ball joint area, this will immediately release the taper and it doesn't take a wack, just a good solid hit.

 

Thanks everyone. I used both the pullers “rented”from autozone plus a few whacks on the side n they popped off. Quite a pop. More than I thought it was gonna be. Now to get the assembly back from dealer n get it back on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks everyone. I used both the pullers “rented”from autozone plus a few whacks on the side n they popped off. Quite a pop. More than I thought it was gonna be. Now to get the assembly back from dealer n get it back on.

You just needed a pair of hammers. Works every time and you don't need to rent/borrow/wait to git 'er done.

Al

 

How difficult was this with the kit? My 4720 blew the seal this weekend. The manual has nothing on it. Does it use the same plastic shim technique to remove the head? Hoping to save a trip to the Hydro shop.
Thanks, Andrew

 

Like John hinted: pickle fork is fine...If you wanna risk tearing up the sealing boot. Otherwise a joint separator will push it straight out.