Tell your dealer there are thousands of 3R out there. I have a 3033R. I did look at the 3032E that lasted about one minuet.
The 3033R has a better seat, You will love the suspension compared to two springs. The loader better it comes off very easy, ( H165)
Get the mid PTO. You can add a front attachment or mid mower deck if needed later down the road.
Also you can get a electric 3 SVC and add the 4th and 5th. I did that so you used a hydraulic lift and tilt that will work great on a rear grader blade or box blade. Then add the hydraulic front line kit for a grapple that controlled from that joy stick. You will use this a lot.
The wheels on the 3033R are 8 lug not 6 lugs like the 3032E the electronic on the 3033R are more advanced. There are a lot more difference's between the two tractors.
Beside the 3033R looks better.
My 3033R has done everything I needed to do and more. The only thing I wish I got would of been a cab tractor. That's Ok because my next tractor will be a 4066 cab. I really don't need a tractor that big the hydraulic for the heavy lifting and dragging heavy loads would be the only reason.

Like you said you have 3 V8 vehicles. You can have to much horsepower or hydraulics. Go with the 3033R or a larger 3R.

 

Tell your dealer there are thousands of 3R out there. I have a 3033R. I did look at the 3032E that lasted about one minuet.
The 3033R has a better seat, You will love the suspension compared to two springs. The loader better it comes off very easy, ( H165)
Get the mid PTO. You can add a front attachment or mid mower deck if needed later down the road.
Also you can get a electric 3 SVC and add the 4th and 5th. I did that so you used a hydraulic lift and tilt that will work great on a rear grader blade or box blade. Then add the hydraulic front line kit for a grapple that controlled from that joy stick. You will use this a lot.
The wheels on the 3033R are 8 lug not 6 lugs like the 3032E the electronic on the 3033R are more advanced. There are a lot more difference's between the two tractors.
Beside the 3033R looks better.
My 3033R has done everything I needed to do and more. The only thing I wish I got would of been a cab tractor. That's Ok because my next tractor will be a 4066 cab. I really don't need a tractor that big the hydraulic for the heavy lifting and dragging heavy loads would be the only reason.

Like you said you have 3 V8 vehicles. You can have to much horsepower or hydraulics. Go with the 3033R or a larger 3R.

I am running a 33 hp 955 Deere with 65 acres and 5 horses. Clearly the minimum for our operation. Get at least a 33R especially if you are landscaping hard scrabble. Larger tractors have more weight and solidity. The compacts work well on horse farms. Good luck, and enjoy the ride!

 

If you plan to mow anything with a mid-mount mower, the E is out. There is no mid-PTO available. There other thing to consider is do you want to have the loader on all the time. I would have loved a 3038E, but the lack of a removable FEL was a dealer breaker.

 

Been there done that. I traded my 4115 for. 3032E and kept it about a month. Liked it but wasn't totally happy with it. Mainly due to the loader operation. Went back and got the 3033R. Took a hit on the trade but would do it again. 3033R is much better tractor.


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A dealer trying to "down sell" you? That's a new one. The only possible explanation is they have a 3032E that they need to get off the lot.

 

Yeah, right? My mind went straight to dealer incentives and higher profit margins on the e. Guess I'm getting old and cynical!!

 

Explain to me, please, what I really need that mid PTO for. I will never mow with it. I'm kinda nutty about not tearing up the lawn. I see that as one of the biggest differences but guess I just don't know what we'll use it for. OH! And I just got "told". Four V8 engines in the garage, not three. Lol

 

the mid mount decks are driven by a pto that is mounted under the tractor that is driven off the transmission. it spins about 2100 RPM instead of 540 like the rear pto. it can also be used for a front mounted snow blower or broom, heck maybe even a water pump of some sort.

 

I agree it worth it to have. It's not about today it's about tomorrow.:greentractorride:

 

and by the way, welcome to gtt!:thumbup1gif:

:greentractorride:

 

Thank you, JohnH! This information is all really helpful. It can get difficult to know where to get the straight story but when I browsed through a few threads in your forums, I know ya'll would have good advice. We like things that are no excuses fast and hard at our house so looks like I'm in good company!

 

The R line has a lot of "operator comfort" features but, as mentioned, for many people the biggie is the mid-mount PTO.

When I was looking I had narrowed my choices to the 2032R and 3032e. My dealer was trying to push the 3032e (he had both machines on the lot) but the biggest deciding factor for me was the you can't put a backhoe on the e-series machines. I went with the 2032R even though I wasn't buying a backhoe at the time. I just didn't want to be locked into never having the option in the future.

Now that I've had my 2032R for almost 2 years, I'm kicking myself for not going with a 3039R.

 

Ask yourself 2 questions: do you NEED a mid PTO for a mower deck etc? Do you NEED the ability to attach a backhoe? If yes for either one of those, then get the R model. For my uses, I don't have a need for either the backhoe or the mid PTO. If I need a backhoe, I will go rent one, do the job and return it. Also, technically you can get a 3pt attached PTO driven backhoe if you REALLY wanted.

I went with a 3038E compared to the 3032E. The extra 6hp goes essentially straight to the PTO which is a good thing since you can't have too much power [emoji6]. I would have loved to have the 3039R but the extra ~$8000 more was hard to justify being 28 and paying my wife's way thru college.

For those saying the loader isn't removable, it is. You have to buy the "loader parking stand kit" and the loader is removable in about 5-10 minutes.

 

I have a 3046r. "e" isn't even in my dictionary.


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I have a 3046r. "e" isn't even in my dictionary.

Don't get me wrong, the R-series are very nice but at the same time the 3032e and 3038e offer a lot of tractor for the money and for a lot of folks they are the perfect fit.

It all comes down to the needs of the buyer.

 

e series = 2 speed HST. R series = 3 speed HST. Pretty sure that ALL specs are favorable to the R series. There is a reason that the e series machines are considered the economy series tractors. One of those things of you get what you pay for. If cost is not a problem, go with the R series and be happy. :thumbup1gif:

 

Decision made. 2016 3033R! Score one for the wife. Three weeks to delivery with a pretty green trailer, FEL and box scrape at 0% for 60 months. More implements to follow. Manure spreader, disc, bush hog....this is ALMOST as good as collecting shoes!

 

EXCELLENT CHOICE! :good2::laugh::laugh:

We will expect pics when you get it delivered!

 

Stand behind each of these machine and you will find the true difference in the two machines. I own the 3033r no comparison I will tell you also that removing the loader is imperative at times.


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Good choice. :bigthumb: As long as you are using the 0% get all your attachments now. For an extra $100 a month or LESS . You have what you need and it is less painful than writing a $3000. check that another check. and one check. :laugh:

 

Congratulations! That will be a great tractor

I think exactly like you and your husband. Get the best and enjoy the better quality.

We bought 5 acres of neglected land: overgrown with thousands of Junipers, falling down buildings, etc. When we closed on the land the next stop was the John Deere dealer. I had agonized over 1, 2, and 3 series. Like you looking at the 1 series lasted 5 minutes or less. For some reason none of the 3 central texas dealers carried the 2 series. One of them even made the comment that the 2 series was designed for "up north". Have no idea why. Anyway that left the 3 series. Wanted the 3039r-but it was a minimum of a 6 week wait back in July of 2015. So we "settled" for the 3038e.

I have to admit-the economy tractor has exceeded all of our expectations. I had considered trading it when the 3039r's became more plentiful-but all of us have come to really appreciate "Rosco" (the name given to it by the ladies in our family). Rosco has performed very well. We do have a number of attachments for it and our favorite is the grapple. That thing is awesome for picking up felled junipers and moving the entire tree around. I see that you will be removing tree's. Because of our drought we could not burn so we would knock the tree's over with the 3038e which would get the root ball out of the ground and then carry the entire tree over to the chipper, one son would saw off the root ball and then I would set the trunk in the mouth of the chipper and both sons would feed in the entire tree. We estimate we got rid of a 2000 Junipers this way and the 3038e performed amazing.

One son is building on 2.5 acres of this land and we are currently box blading in a 130 foot long driveway-no problem.

 

Three weeks is a long time to wait for a tractor. Often for the filled tires instead of the ballast box. Upgraded the FEL from the H160 that was included to the H165, more for the ability to raise it up farther than for the added weight lift ability.

First project already decided. Have to install a drainage culvert under our driveway and improve the grade a little to promote drainage. Right now, water sits on either side of our driveway at the street like a BOG! Then, edging both sides of the drive with brick pavers perpendicular to the driveway and freshen up the gravel.

Driveway before pics to follow.

 

..Often for the filled tires instead of the ballast box...

Please read this thread: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...k.com/forums/implements-attachments/4363-what-rear-ballast-why-do-you-need.html

 

Filled tires are not an acceptable substitute for a ballast box. Filled tires provide weight for traction but do nothing to counterbalance the strain loader work puts on the front axle.

 

Kennyd and 56, thank you both. I wasn't at the dealership to hear that sales pitch and should have known to ask here before giving my ok. Ballast box to be added asap!

 

Lenny's and 56, thank you both. I wasn't at the dealership to hear that sales pitch and should have known to ask here before giving my ok. Ballast box to be added asap!

Wise move. :thumbup1gif:

Your tractor will thank you and be a lot more effective and safe to boot. :good2:

 

Now we just need to figure out who this Lenny guy is :lolol:

 

Right? My auto correct got the best of me!

 

You can get by without a ballast box if you always have an implement on the back when using the loader. You may not have enough weight capacity of the loader without the proper ballast in back. But there are thousands of tractors with loaders that get used all the time with a tiller or box blade on the back with no problems. A ballast box can be very handy when only doing loader work in that they aren't nearly as big of an implement hanging off of the back physically as other implements making the tractor more maneuverable in tight spaces. Don't think that the only way you can use your loader is by having to only have the ballast box on when using it. I was never offered a ballast box when I bought my tractor, but the dealer told me to make sure I have a heavy implement installed when using the loader, my tractor pretty much never doesn't have at least my box blade, rotary cutter, or backhoe installed on the back so I have never felt a need for the added cost of a ballast box.

 

Deere calls for 6 wheel weights or filled tires in addition to 1,100 lbs of three point hitch ballast.

 

Curious as to why Deere doesn't sell a large enough ballast box to accommodate 1,100 lbs of ballast...

 

You can also buy extensions for the smaller ballast boxes.

 

You are correct. The standard ballast box (BW15073) with extensions will provide 1137 lb. when filled with concrete.

 

I have a standard box filled with steel plate. Wade each plate and the box it came in just under 1100 lbs. It all depends what you put in the box.
I have and extension to the box that I made into a storage box for my chains and tools.