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Attached is a useful piece of cross reference information regarding coolants.

It is put out by Fleetguard but it gives you a good reference as to the specific type of antifreeze (Organic Acid (OAT), Hybrid or otherwise) and which types are compatible. (The colors can really help too)

It isn't complete by an y means but it is a good reference.

Also wanted to address the OP
Your 50/50 ratio is fine as I said before but do check the bottles closely.

As you can see from this chart cool-guard II is an OAT If your original antifreeze was golden in color you had a Col-Guard II fill and if you added a non-compatible standard antifreeze you should drain, flush, and fill as soon as possible.

Non-compatible antifreezes can cause OATs to turn into Oatmeal (if gets all thick and lumpy).. which isn't good.
Something is not right with that reference chart, it shows that JD Cool Gard II is red in color?

My 1025 says to use Cool Gard II and it is green. :dunno:
 
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
JD actually has a lot of information on the web abt cool guard and its compatibility with other coolants. The prestone I added is fine except for cavitation protection. Will drain, flush and put in some fresh cool guard. Don't no which cool guard to go with, there are two,II premix and II pg premix.Donr want to ask the dealer because the tech said,"any 50/50 is ok". Thanks everyone for your help.
Don
 
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Something is not right with that reference chart, it shows that JD Cool Gard II is red in color?

My 1025 says to use Cool Gard II and it is green. :dunno:
I'm not sure what green stuff is in your 1025 but CoolGard II is pale yellow. Like your 1025, my 2720 came from the factory with bright green coolant but when I changed it and refilled with CoolGard II it is now very pale yellow. I was originally using concentrate and changed it again using pre-mix and it is still pale yellow. I always liked bright green coolant as it was easy to spot leaks and identify the fluid. The yellow CoolGard II is not very visible.
 
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JD actually has a lot of information on the web abt cool guard and its compatibility with other coolants. The prestone I added is fine except for cavitation protection. Will drain, flush and put in some fresh cool guard. Don't no which cool guard to go with, there are two,II premix and II pg premix.Donr want to ask the dealer because the tech said,"any 50/50 is ok". Thanks everyone for your help.
Don
I don't know if you have seen this page: https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/5686_fb_AntiFreezeCoolGard.htm

If it were me I'd go with the PG premix (60/40) for the better cold weather protection (-52F vs -34F) but I live in Minnesota and it can get chilly here. I don't know how it impacts the boiling point for warm weather use but it has gotten colder than -34F here but I've never seen it colder than -52F where I live now, although my tractor is in a garage. The PG is also safer for animals and the environment and has the same 6 year/6000 hour service life.
 
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Something is not right with that reference chart, it shows that JD Cool Gard II is red in color?

My 1025 says to use Cool Gard II and it is green.
Image


I'm not sure what green stuff is in your 1025 but CoolGard II is pale yellow. Like your 1025, my 2720 came from the factory with bright green coolant but when I changed it and refilled with CoolGard II it is now very pale yellow. I was originally using concentrate and changed it again using pre-mix and it is still pale yellow. I always liked bright green coolant as it was easy to spot leaks and identify the fluid. The yellow CoolGard II is not very visible.
I haven't drained it, but it looks yellowish or greenish in the reservoir, I suppose it is more of a yellowish. I had a factory block heater installed by the dealer when I bought it, maybe they refilled it with original Cool Gard?

All I know is I changed my oil today, the decal under the hood says to use an Ethylene Gylcol coolant, which they both are, as well as any green coolant I've ever seen.

But...it sure as hell isn't "red".
 
Who can tell me what the coolant temperature of a 1950 model A john Deere tractor is when sitting idling and then when engine has been ran and worked in hay field? Installed a new gauge that starts at 140 degrees but temperature never seems to go to 150 degrees. I fear I got a defective gauge...........Thank you for some help. Tractor does not have a water pump> This little I do know.
 
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