I need an app like that to monitor my beer intake (gal/hr), blood alcohol level BAC (%), side effects (net sway amplitude - in feet; AND sway frequency measured in Sway/sec.)

Other metrics such as ambient temperature and my motor-mouth Responses Per Minute (RPM), go without saying....

And you know what, there’s probably an app out there for that!

 

please send the link... i need it....

 

One thing that i do when my radiator screen gets plugged and tractor overheats (not to the point of boiling over) is shut off the tractor before I remove the screen. Remove the screen - clear it - reinsert - start the tractor.
Otherwise, if the tractor is still running - even at idle - the fan sucks the loose dust off the screen as I remove it, and firmly implants it directly in the radiator itself.

after I restart the tractor 1-2minutes later, and with a clear screen - the tractor cools down within 1-2 minutes simply because of the improved cooling on the rad. Even under load.

However, if i was to notice that the temperature is not dropping despite the clear screen - i will for certain shut off my machine and begin inspecting other elements: coolant level in the overflow tank, water pump belt, etc etc...

 

I need an app like that to monitor my beer intake (gal/hr), blood alcohol level BAC (%), side effects (net sway amplitude - in feet; AND sway frequency measured in Sway/sec.)

Other metrics such as ambient temperature and my motor-mouth Responses Per Minute (RPM), go without saying....

 

I need an app like that to monitor my beer intake (gal/hr), blood alcohol level BAC (%), side effects (net sway amplitude - in feet; AND sway frequency measured in Sway/sec.)

Other metrics such as ambient temperature and my motor-mouth responses per minute (RPM), go without saying....

Thank you for the humor! I'm having a rough day despite my best efforts otherwise, and decided to visit GTT just to focus on happier things for a moment. Your post gave me a smile and a much needed laugh 😂

I wonder if the fan was reversed and sucked air thru the radiator instead of blowing what’s in front of the tractor into the radiator if it would clog less often.

I've read that some types of heavy equipment feature a hydraulically driven fan with solenoids to momentarily reverse the flow (and therefore the fan's direction of rotation) every so often. This is intended to help keep the radiator and other heat exchangers clear of debris.

 

Now that I am running the tractor plus app, as I pictured at the start of the thread. I know more precisely what the tractor is doing. Simply shutting down the PTO and throttling back to around 1500 to limp back to the barn, drops the temps almost instantly. As seen in that pic, the alarm tripped at 230 degrees, I shut the PTO off, idled back and grabbed my phone to snap a pic of the display, within a matter of just a few seconds you can see it had already dropped below that 230 that tripped the alarm/warning. I really see no reason to think I am harming anything by the practices that many of us seem to be using, by not shutting it down immediately.
Now if I had done those things to reduce the load on the engine and it kept climbing, I would shut it down immediately. That would indicate to me there is more of a problem then plugged screens.

It was down to 222 within 5-10 seconds. By the time I made it back to the barn about minute later, it was 215 or so.

 

Coolent is expensive and I don’t like the tractor spreading it across the pasture when it boils over. On my 2520 there is no gauge so I stop mowing about every 20 minutes and with the engine at idle I brush off the grill and screen. I wonder if the fan was reversed and sucked air thru the radiator instead of blowing what’s in front of the tractor into the radiator if it would clog less often.

 

Just a technical point, which would only matter if this happened all the time, but when the coolant boils it creates cavitation, which will erode that area. If there is enough material it doesn't hurt anything, but it can become an issue if there isn't. (I am sure the tractors can survive occasional occurrences, but Ibwouldn't recommend you do it every day.)

The other thing to consider is where the bubbles go when the coolant boils. If they congregate in a hot area there will no longer be coolant there to absorb the heat, and that can lead to cracking form excessive heat.

I think we are all in agreeance regarding the fact that 'it depends' on the situation.
Ibwould say if you aren't sure why it's running hot itnwould be best to shut it down, but if you know it is high load and a clogged cooler it'll be better to idle it without load and let the system work.

 

Good points, but I think it’s a bit different than an overheating 70s car.

If the tractor wasn’t doing much of anything and was overheating, yeah, shut it off.

If you were using ground engaging equipment, heavy PTO use, or any other use of real power, stopping the need to burn lots of fuel is number one in a diesel. You definitely want the cooling system working to bring things back down and normalize. If you can’t for whatever reason, you’re absolutely right, cut it off.

Most of the time in a tractor world during an overheating event, stopping the tractor from working, leaving it run, and attempt to clear the radiator blockage or whatever is causing your issue is the thing to do. The fan operating and coolant moving around, even hot, will help keep things even and hopefully bring it back down to normal.

Clearly this isn’t a hard and true rule. So take my comments for what you paid for it. 👍🏼

 

I should also clarify.... when I say "shutting down the tractor when hot is not a bad idea", what it means you will not ruin things by doing so. it's not a "bad idea".
But it also does not mean "your tractor enjoys it when you do that".

yes - things are hot... yes the radiator fan is spinning when the engine is running.... yes things will get hotter if you stop it all.... BUT... when your tractor is overheating, and the cooling system is not keeping up - "stopping the source of heat" is the priority.... meaning stop the engine... open the hood.... etc etc...

take yourself back to when your '70s car overheated on the side of the road - coolant boiling, spilling, steam billowing... what did you do?... keep it running?... or shut it off?....

 

Funny you posted this, I had exactly this issue while mowing this weekend on my 1023E, on mine it's usually the screen in front of the radiator itself that gets clogged. I just put the tractor to mid throttle, open the hood and clear the screen. Wait a minute or two for the temps to come down and go back to mowing.

 

Same would apply to all the modern Deere diesel tractors, I do the same practices with my X7s through my 5Rs.
All be it never had a 5 series come close to getting hot.

The 3R doesn’t have any of those handy screens to pull out like my X7 or the 1R, 2025R etc. wish they did.

 

Maybe the turbo has a gravity reservoir for oil to lube the turbo during coast down .

 

I've always heard that shutting off a hot tractor, especially one with a turbo was really bad on the engine. I don't think I've ever had this overheating to happen with my tractors.

 

for a turbo engine - for sure!... the turbo is a totally different environment with vastly different issues.
you always have to run a cool-down mode for a few minutes for the turbo to cool down with airflow.

Turbo bearings are lubricated and cooled with oil. The turbo component temperatures are easily >1000deg, compared to the engine block where temps are 120-150deg in the hottest part (inside cylinder wall). So when you stop the oil flow, the oil quickly burns out in the turbo bearings, turns to tar and carbon, and the next time you try to run it, you have problems.

but for a plain coolant-based engine, shutting down when hot, is not a problem.

 

The other thing i'll say is this - my dad had an old diesel engine years ago... it's cooling system was a huge water jacket that was filled with water before you start the engine... once the engine starts to run and comes up to temperature, the water jacket would start to boil. by boiling, it kept the engine at a constant 100degC. no radiator. no coolant pump. no thermostat. just boiling coolant - by design!
of course you'd have to watch the water reservoir to make sure you don't let the level get too low after hours of use.... so we'd just top it off every few hours.....

 

shutting down the tractor when hot is not a bad idea, with 1 exception that I'll mention later.
when you shut it down, you stop fluid circulation but you also stop the heat source - which is the fuel burning in the engine. the residual heat in the cylinder walls will migrate to the coolant and everything will just stop... no more heating.... and only cooling happens - albeit slow, because circulation is stopped. The residual heat energy in the cylinder walls is minimal.... so nothing to worry about.

the 1 exception is if your system looses coolant pressure due to engine stop. This normally should not happen, but in some older systems it can. Especially when system pressurization is not obtained by the radiator cap, but instead by the coolant pump and system flow restrictions. When the pressure drops, the coolant may start to boil - but only if the temperature is already critically high.
Having said that - boiling coolant is not the end of the world - the act of boiling takes an enormous amount of energy, in relative comparison to raising the cooant temperature by 1 more degree for example. It takes 4.2 joules of energy to raise 1mL of water by 1 degree. It takes 2,260 joules of energy to to boil 1mL of water.
And one last point - once the liquid is boiling - by definition it means the temperature is no longer rising. So although a coolant boiling event seems ugly, dirty, stressful, and even dangerous - fact is - it is a good thing for the system... it extracts huge amounts of energy out of the system in a very short time, while keeping the temperature constant! Unless you leak out all your coolant and there is none left to boil.

 

Based on most of our somewhat lengthy described practices, it’s probably pretty hard to fit all those details into a cheap idiot light, so they just use STOP to cover it. Lol 😂

 

If shutting the engine down is harmful the operators manual should state that .

I agree but they have a lot of different types to deal with. Shutting it down if you have no idea what you are doing or what is causing it is the safest option.

 

If shutting the engine down is harmful the operators manual should state that .

 

Totally different machine but, the manual for my 1R does say this. It's in one of those "Avoid Damage!" statements.

 

Shutting down the machine is the worst thing you can do. Drop to idle, clear screens and wait for temp to drop. You can also aid this by shutting down AC, not running PTO, etc.

Shutting down the machine will create a heat sink and the block will increase in temperature. You need to keep the coolant moving.

 

I have found the multiple filing cores makes it a bit to tight gor the air wand I have.
‘Anyone have a thinner or better suited air wand for blowing out the radiator and other cooling cores.

I use this, they make several different lengths...
Innovative Products of America #8051 Air Comb

 

I'd put a piece of tape over the indicator

 

That's what I do for any engine that is overheating, simply take the load off and let it cool just above idle. The exceptions defective fan, stuck thermostat, loss of coolant or anything else where cooling just won't happen anymore until repairs are made.



I considered doing this too, but with inflation, the cost of a roll of tape was just too much to bear. I went for the free option and simply drained all the coolant. No coolant temp warnings ever since!

 

I mow brush with the bucket on the loader and carry my stihl BGA57 blower in the bucket. I watch the temp gage and when it gets too hot I stop and blow off the grill. The blower has enough power to blow through the grill and blow stuff off the other side. If really dirty I open the hood and point it at the radiator to blow stuff up & out.

 

i found that you can just brush off the outer grill with your hands and get back up and running in the field, at least with 1025r and 3025e. the idle makes the fan still pull the material, easier if it is off, but the heat soak is not good so i deal with the fan. after i am done with hogging i will blow it all out, but not before. i did add the radiator screen to my 3025e, it catches a lot of fines, was worth it

 

I do exactly what you do for exactly the same reasons.