Most of your assumptions and statements are very true. It's very easy. Move the throttle to the position you need to get the job done. If the engine is lugging down, throttle up some. If you are mowing or using the PTO for other chores such as tilling, set the throttle for PTO rpms as indicated on the tach and readout. For mowing? I go full tilt. The extra few rpms isn't much different than the PTO rated speed. The faster speed insures you have the correct air flow, blade speed, and the HP available for cutting. :good2:

But yes, the throttle lever is no different than the other lawn mowers you had. You're actually setting the spring tension on the governor. More tension equals more rpm.

 

I'm not sure you can have too much throttle on these tractors.
My rule of thumb,
If you increase the throttle slightly and the the engine does not speed up, you are set way too low.
Black smoke, too low.

 

I'm not sure you can have too much throttle on these tractors.
My rule of thumb,
If you increase the throttle slightly and the the engine does not speed up, you are set way too low.
Black smoke, too low.

I have an x739 with the Kawasaki twin, is there an easy way to see what rpm I'm running and set it higher?

 

Higher RPMs means more fuel used. I run enough RPMs to get the job I am doing at the time completed without overloading the engine.
That includes mowing. In my yard, the only difference I can see between running 2300 RPM & wide open is the amount of fuel used. The mowed grass looks the same to me.

 

With 1.3 gallons an hour at full load/rated power, that's not much. If you're worried about using too much fuel, get a push mower or a goat.

 

And you keep contributing to global warming. SMART ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I usually keep the throttle as low as possible to get the job done. Partly because my wife is Deaf and she has a nasty habit of turning her hearing aids off if she is around any noise at all. I will sometimes mow with a lower RPM and go slower, especially around the front of the house where I am concerned about flying debris. Tilling though, I notice that rated 540 RPM is ideal, much faster and I get a cavitation on the tiller. If I am just putting around the yard in the tractor I typically run about 1200-2200 RPM this gives me adequate flow through the hydraulics and allows me to move at a respectable pace rather than crawling everywhere. I do notice however that at times I need full throttle especially if working the FEL a bunch, the extra throttle seems to really help with the pressures.

 

Partly because my wife is Deaf and she has a nasty habit of turning her hearing aids off if she is around any noise at all.

:lol: Yeah, I know that one. Dated a girl for about 3-4 years who had 80% hearing loss in one ear and 90% in the other. She didn't like what was going on, she'd just pick up a book and turn her hearing aids off. Took me about 10 years to get over the habit of not talking to someone unless I was looking straight at them and never covering my mouth (like putting my head in my hands at a table) while talking.

 

I have saw many times people get on their tractor or skid loader and it is wide open no matter what they are doing.
May not hurt anything I just prefer to use enough throttle were the hydraulics aren't singing loud, maybe any where from 2-3k. When mowing flat ground I usually mow around 2400 and when going up a hill 3k.
I noticed when the box blade is full it needs full throttle.


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Where should the throttle be while stationary and operating the FEL? This is really, I guess, a question about what engine speed it takes to bring the hydro pump up to full pressure.

You should be able to get full hydraulic pressure at idle or just above. Higher RPM gives you more flow and speeds up your hydraulics. If you're stationary, choose your RPM based on the speed you want your FEL to move.

With my BH, I usually operate at just above idle to about 2400 RPM, depending on how fast and well I can handle the hoe. Too fast RPM and the BH becomes spastic (or that's just me the operator).

My 2 cents.

 

Funny how a thread goes from throttle to poop... I guess we all need some humor throughout the day!


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Guys, the thread has stayed fairly close to topic so far but let's try to avoid going further afield.

Climate change, the ozone layer, etc would certainly be a welcome discussion in the Politics section. :good2:

:hi:

 

Where should the throttle be while stationary and operating the FEL? This is really, I guess, a question about what engine speed it takes to bring the hydro pump up to full pressure.

Pump pressure is not dependent upon throttle setting. The hydraulic pump is a positive displacement pump. That means as long as it is turning a certain volume of fluid will be pushed through with each revolution*. The fluid will be pushed to where you are directing it, or it will be bypassed via the pressure relief valve, or the engine will stall. There will be a minimum speed of course, I don't know exactly what that minimum speed is but for my tractor I can tell you that it will easily build full pressure at idle.

So that means that the proper rpm depends upon the speed at which you need to operate the hydraulics and the load. If it is a light load then low rpm is okay. If it is a heavy load then a low rpm would not be good for the engine. For example digging in dry sand is not much of a load so lower rpm would be okay. Digging in rocky ground, hardpan or clay even if done slowly should be done at higher rpm so that the engine can cool itself properly. But higher is not always better, if using the backhoe there is an upper limit to the recommended rpm in order to keep the hydraulic fluid from overheating - check the manual.

*a worn pump would would require higher rpm due to fluid leaking past where it isn't supposed so.