it should.

 

16' may be too short without it hanging off on both ends. It will be difficult to get the load balanced right as well since there won't be any fore/aft room to move the tractor. You only choice may be to load it forwards vs backwards. Weight wise you should be fine.


BTW, I moved this to the truck/trailer forum for a better fit and more responses. :thumbup1gif:

 

With the FEL and backhoe I also think you'll bee a little short, especially to tow "legally" with the two buckets on the trailer deck.

 

How often do you need to tow it? Just getting home or every week?

You should have no problem getting it on there but the backhoe may hang off the back or you may need to hang the bucket over the trailer hitch. You could put the bucket in the box of the truck to get the tractor farther forward on the trailer.

 

I don't think very often but I have a house 3 hrs north that I'll take it to from time to time.

Outside of there maybe 2 to 3 times a month max on the trailer.

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I'm sure you'll be able to get it home on the 16ft. From there you can see how much of a hassle it is load and get balanced and then decide if you want to get a bigger trailer. Every trailer is a bit different.

 

Not much for me to add. Like others have said, try your trailer and see how it works for you. You may find it works fine for your needs.

 

The tractor should fit, but you're going to have a very tough time setting it up to tow legally with the backhoe on there. I had an 18' trailer with 24" beavertail (16' flat) and my 2520 fit comfortably (and it doesn't have a backhoe). The ballast box had about 6" that didn't sit on the flat part of the deck once it was properly positioned.

You'll have to try it out and see how it goes. Keep in mind that positioning the machine for proper weight on the tongue is part of the "measurement". You can't tow safely (let along legally) if you shove the machine too far forward just to get the backhoe to not protrude through the ramps.

 

Yeah, good point. My gut says it'll be to small. Sucks because I just got this trailer a couple years ago and it wasn't cheap at all.

So, if I have to swap to something bigger what size should I get?

18' or 20' and 10k or 14k???

Steel or aluminum??

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A lot of that depends on your regs and your tow vehicle. Here in CT, I refused to take on anything over 10k because it requires either a DOT number or special waiver from DOT that you have to apply for and show non-commercial use, etc. And, while you certainly have to take into account what you're currently towing with, give some thought to what might happen in the future as well. Don't oversize yourself such that you have to have a heavier duty vehicle to tow with in the future.

As far as length, you'll have to sort of "figure that out" by seeing how it fits on your 16' trailer and kind of going from there.

The good news is that everyone selling a used equipment trailer believes they are made out of gold and price them accordingly... You should be able to recoup MOST of what you spent on it if you have to sell it outright. After you do, look around at the dealers in your general area and push them against one another to make them compete. I was going to drive to PA to buy a Big Tex 10ET-18 until a dealer in NH (MUCH closer) agreed to match the price. Be sure to ask what the MSRP is of a trailer and then figure out from there what you should spend.

A $5000 trailer (MSRP) should have a base cost to the dealer of roughly $2500-$2800 and a freight charge of around $200-$400 depending on where it's coming from. If you knew what I paid for my trailer, you'd be absolutely disgusted with what dealers regularly charge people to buy the same trailer.

 

Not to get off topic... but since you mentioned them I thought I'd ask your opinion on the rear bags? I've never used them on a pickup, but have considered them.

 

Air bags are intended to provide variable ride quality that you can adjust depending on the terrain and load. Many people misuse them, however, and believe that full inflation (which will keep the truck from compressing down the to the bump stop height) allows them to tow / haul more weight. Of all of the people that I've read about using them, NONE have been for ride quality improvement.

 

I have been frustrated by not easily finding overall dimension from Deere or Kubota so I did an experiment.

Build your own and when finished, rotate the picture of the complete tractor so you view it orthography ally from the side. I did this on a 30th and found the overall length is 3 the wheelbase. So the 70" wheelbase means 210 inches overall = 17.5 feet from cutting edge of loader to outside of the backhoe bucket bottom with it pinned in park. 20 foot trailer so you can control hitch weight.

 

Damn word correction

Orthographically
3046

 

You can edit your post for up to 12 hours after you've posted it. :thumbup1gif: After that it takes a staff member. Just let us know, we can fix it for you. :drinks: I have to fix DRobinson's all the time. :lol:

 

looking directly at it from the side

 

through the magic of shrinking and enlarging copies here is a 3046 in a 14" Big Tex dump trailer.

 

OK, so I have 15 feet from front to back with the hoe swung to the side. Would it be better to pull on or back on? I want to have the heavier end towards the back to help get the load better over the axles. I'm thinking the hoe back would help but maybe the engine weight towards the back.

What do you guys think?

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Every trailer and every load is a little different. Your best bet is likely to load it up and drag it out to where there's a scale. Weight it. Turn it around, weigh it again. See which one is closer to the way it needs to be and go from there.

 

So, I came up with 2,932 lbs rear and 2,274 lbs front for weight as it sits.

That make sense?

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i dont know if you got this home yet but you can always rent a skid loader trailer from a rental yard. if you wanna be legal. then test your trailer at home
most are at least 18' by 84" and rated for 14k plus.

i brought my model D home on one it was 18' long buy at least 84" wide cost was 70$ for a day and 1/2. well worth it. empty trailer was like 4k lbs. D weighed 6250lbs didnt sag my truck much at all.. good luck and sorry about the jokestroke...........j/k:greentractorride:

 

Yeah, I have the tractor at the house. Well, I did until today. Having the loader looked over.

Technically it'll fit. I think a 20' is the way to go to get balance better. I don't have ramps for a tractor, just a gate and it has metal sides on it. Awesome trailer but just not set up for this I think but I could switch it around if the balance is OK.

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So, had the tractor on the trailer today. It seemed OK but I didn't have the warm and fuzzies either. It just seems like I'm not able to get the load right on the trailer.

My truck has airbags and I had 40 lbs in them which isn't to much but it still was fairly "bouncy" going down the road.

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You can figure this out using weights...

Take the empty weight of the trailer plus the complete weight of the tractor and implements (you can estimate), and be sure to account for things like filled rears and the ballast box. Multiply that weight by .15 (15%) to get a general idea of how much tongue weight you should expect to be carrying once everything is loaded.

Load up the bed of your truck with that same amount of weight, placing it on top of the axle or behind it. Measure the height of your wheel well once it's loaded. This will give you a very general idea of where the truck's bed should settle to once the trailer is connected and everything is properly positioned to provide the right amount of tongue weight.

Again, this is for a general idea only and should not be considered to be "definitive". Once you get the basics down, you can fine-tune using a scale.

And, you should do all of this with NO assistance from the air bags. A 10,000lb GTWR load would put a max of about 1500 pounds of tongue weight on the truck - well within what the suspension can handle on its own.