Very good thread Kenny...:thumbup1gif:

 

Great post Kenny! :thumbup1gif:


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:good2:

 

Thanks Kenny, definitely useful!:thumbup1gif:

 

Thanks Kenny!!!! Very useful !

Along the same line, if I was to find mine low per specifications,what would I need to do on my 2520. I assume it would be to shim the relief valve. Where would the relief valve be on my tractor and what shims would I need? If mine turns out to be low, I know it would be best to take mine back to the dealer,but unfortunately,they are quite aways down the road.

 

This is where owning the FSM (factory service manual) helps. I cannot advise specifically to the 2520 since I don't have one. On my tractor no "shims" are needed since its a bolt/jamb nut setup on the PRV.

 

Ken,
I was trying to find the relief valve for rgd. Not sure where to look,but it looks like it is on the main valve body. I came across this spec sheet. Is it stating that there is 4,500 psi in the drive circuit? That is some serious pressure.

JD doesn't make it easy to share any info do they.:nunu:

Greg

 

Greg, those pressures are inside the hydrostat tranny, we will not see them doing our routine projects. But yes, it's all serious pressure and needs to be respected just the same. The PRV on my machine is located on the right side of the tranny case up over the axle.

 

Thanks Greg! I appreciate your looking this up! I'm going to order that manual this week....I should of done it right after buying my machine.

 

Rdg, the 2520 is a jamb nut adjustment no shims needed.

Sent from HTC Rezound

 

glc the system pressure on your chart of 2421psi is what you should read on your gauge.

Sent from HTC Rezound

 

Helpfull thread......as for the 2520 series its good for the new owner to know exactly where they are right from the dealer.....
Most of the 2520/2720 series tend to be delivered above the stock spec of 2415 psi, some are set lower and feedback is usually disappointing performance........ a nice sweet spot is in the 2650 psi area (or less if you choose).... it provides you significant gains without destroying your system or machine......just an observation over the years..

 

Kenny, I realize you don't have a 1-series, but do you think I could just get the gauge and thread it right into the appropriate qd fitting (adapting if necessary), doing w/o the swivel and hose. Having someone monitor the gauge if I can't see it from the control lever. Just want to check my pressure w/o spending any more than necessary.

 

That would work just fine.:thumbup1gif:

 

Yup, it does not matter how you do it...but all the gauges have NPT ports so you will need some sort of adapter-the QD has ORB threads I think.

 

The QD's on the 318 and I would guess smaller tractors are MPT, I forget the model for them, Diesel jump in here I know you know what it is.

 

OK...I sit corrected. The 1/4" Pioneer QD's on my 4110 are ORB's

 

FYI, "someone" will be selling a ready-to-use gauge kit shortly, it will be very simular to the one pictured in the first post of this thread.

 

I will beat Gizmo with this one. :munch:

 

Purchased a ready to use gauge from Kenny a couple weeks ago to check the hyd pressure on my JD 4120. Had it in for some warranty work a while back and was told that they found my hyd pressure set at 3200PSI (spec is 2500 max) they adjusted it. I noticed right away with my loader that I was unable to lift things that I had previously. I knew something was wrong when I couldn't even lift a full bucket of dirt more than 6ft high. I thrrew the gauge on it and it was set at 1900 PSI. So the tech at the dealer either mis-read his gauge or it was not reading correctly. Anyhow, got it back to where it should be and loader performs great again. Thanks Kenny for the tool and the great video!

 

Thanks for the review! I'd bet his gauge is waaaay off, you might want to let him know (or borrow yours :lol :thumbup1gif:

 

I installed a 0-5000 PSI Gauge in line with my Loader Lift Cylinders to monitor them and see if I could figure out the weight of stuff in the bucket or forks. It is handy to note everything is OK it is just to much weight to lift. If I remember right it takes 500+ PSI just to lift the empty bucket. Nice to have a portable one for testing reasons too.

 

Anyone know where, or can show a picture of the hydraulic relief valve adjustment for the loader on a 1025R JD? I think many guys are interested in knowing how hard the adjustment is to preform. The gauge is a great tool, but knowing where the hydraulic relief valve adjustment is located, is as important as having the gauge.:greentractorride::usa

 

I don't have that info handy at the moment, but the procedure is detailed in the Technical Manual.

 

Watching my Hydraulic Pressure Gauge more today working on the road on some stuck bucket loads. The gauge can pop up to 4000 PSI using tilt and lift at the same time on the main lift cylinders in a heavy lift. Other wise it stays in the normal 2400 PSI or lower range lifting things with the bucket. Today was a good day 8 hours on the tractor and I still feel good!

 

Adjusting the hydraulic pressure relief valve for the loader on a 1025R

So after doing some looking and wrenching I'll share what I found/figured out. The right fender has to come off. The right console has to come off. The right wheel needs to come off. The pressure relief valve is on the bottom of the loader control stick lever. It is kind of tight under there. A little mirror is nice so you can see what your dealing with. Make small adjustments and never make big adjustments.

In conclusion it is a fairly big job to adjust the pressure. Like I said in a previous post having a gauge and checking the pressure is useless unless you are prepared to adjust the pressure or have someone do it for you. I hope this helps some of you out, that were asking where the hydraulic pressure relief valve for the loader was located.:usa

 

Like I said in a previous post having a gauge and checking the pressure is useless unless you are prepared to adjust the pressure or have someone do it for you.

I wouldn't say a gauge is useless. There are a lot of folks who question the pressure setting the first time they try to lift something too heavy. Their first thought is "something must be wrong with my hydraulics". The gauge lets you know if the pressure is within spec of the factory setting. If correct, then your load was simply too heavy. I would say the majority of situations fall into this category.

 

I used my new KBOH gauge to test my 1025R hydraulic pressure today. I'm a bit confused about the values I'm seeing. Before the test, I used the tractor for over an hour to cut the grass so the fluid should have been up to temp. All readings were taken at full throttle.

On the FEL lift and lower ports I read 1800 lbs and on the curl/dump ports I read 1600 lbs. I thought there is only a single relief valve in the SCV so shouldn't all ports read the same?

Since I got unexpected differences between ports, I moved the gauge around and took multiple readings at each port. As I took more readings, the lift/lower ports slowly dropped to 1600 lbs and the curl/dump ports slowly dropped to 1400 lbs. Is this because the hydraulic fluid was heating up as I deadheaded the hydraulics as I was testing? For each test, I moved the SCV lever for 5 or 10 seconds, then moved the opposite way for a few seconds to relieve pressure before moving the gauge to the next port.

 

Interesting results Pete, that does seem very unusual and I don't really have an immediate answer for you over than to say 5-10 seconds seems a bit long to me.

 

I got my gauge from @Kennyd ... Hooked it up to my Little Baby Fergie, the manual says for loader work 2500+ RPM ...

Right on the money!

Backhoe work is at 2900+ RPM ... Set it at 3000 RPM.

Gained a couple of psi ...

Since I had paid my pennies, and it was already hooked up ... I dropped it down to 2000 RPM ...

What's interesting is I had the tachometer needle set dead center on the line, both 2500 & 3000 RPM it dropped just a tad, but at the 2000 RPM test, lost almost 100 RPM ...

Glad it is right, as it's a pain to reach the adjustment screw and lock nut on my GC 1725 MB ... Looking in front of the left rear tire ... The yellow line is the deck height adjustment knob, purple is the lock nut, red is the actual machine screw ...