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All lights replaced with LEDs = 13 amp load off the alternator/battery

33K views 59 replies 28 participants last post by  Yank  
#1 ·
It's raining. I can't do work, and I'm waiting for maintenance supplies coming tomorrow. So time to play with lights. LED replacement bulbs in the headlights, work lights, flashers, and taillights. And added some side facing lights I had laying around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4Ew6UKbQJA

The OEM headlights and fender work lights are normal automotive #862 bulbs, despite having a special green part number. Usually used for fog lights on cars and trucks. They are 38 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 5 watts. This is a total 11 amp load reduction on the alternator and battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJ9MZH0


The OEM flashers are normal automotive #1156 bulbs. They are 27 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 8 watts each. And they are significantly brighter and more attention getting with the snappy on-off. I actually had these in the headlights of my 425 and swapped them into the 1026r this morning. The only issue is you will get the bulb warning on the dash when the flashers are on. I don't really care. If you have a 1025r, I presume this is the same bulb used for the red tail light?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H54SP6O


For the 1026r's tiny little red tail light, that is a normal automotive #194 bulb. They use 4 watts each. The LED replacements are 2 watts each and definitely brighter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GYRGH6/

In total, this is a 13 amp load off the alternator/battery. All of the lights are now brighter and more effective. And frankly it looks really sharp IMO.

Then I also had some LED marker lights laying around in a box. So I put them into the sides of the flasher/tails on the ROPS. Red marker light comes on with the taillight. And the amber marker flashes with the flasher.
 

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#4 ·
You probably won't find bulbs of this type that handle it due to the heat it would generate. I also don't want to install load resistors, which would also satisfy the control unit, since that would defeat the reduced load on the alternator.

I'll take some pictures once it gets dark.
 
#3 ·
Fantastic post!!!! Thank you for your efforts in identifying the led replacements and posting links!
 
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#5 ·
Here's a panorama of the headlights and work lights. And a shot of the tractor. Best I can do in the cold rain wearing shorts and sandles.
 

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#6 ·
13a. is a significant savings. I can hear my 1026 pull down a bit turning on the forward lights @ idle. Should make for more winter torque for plowing/blowing snow.

So, watt do you plan to do with the extra whats?:laugh:
 
#7 ·
#34 ·
Go check out this thread from mike01. Great info. Can’t remember what year mikes was. Mine is a 2016 1025 and his was similar with all lights
 
#9 ·
This has got to be the mod of the year. So simple a caveman can do it. I just finished the 4 forward facing lights in under 15 minutes using only a small blade screwdriver. I have never had the lights apart before this. The old bulbs went into the 2 bags that the new ones came in. If I ever “trade the 1025r “ in I will swap them back. The amount of light they produce is higher, never mine the amps saved. Having a Curtis cab now I think radio and speakers without thinking power draw. :thumbup1gif:
 

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#13 ·
Lots of numbers are the same design and get summarized with one common number. That is the correct LED replacement for it that I used.
 
#21 ·
Is this really the first anyone's done this? I figured I would be late to the game, but I have a bit of an obsession with light and did it anyway.
 
#23 ·
Here are the LED ROPS lights that I have on mine, and the full lighting package. The fender and front lights are not LED...yet. :)

Picture rotation!?! :dunno:

Kevin.
 

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#24 ·
Left bulb error?

So I took @Peddles2Paddles advice and bought these bulbs. They work great and they were a snap to install. However, I get a dashboard error message when I turn on just the flashers,: "Left Bulb Error". Both sides are working properly (I assume "left" bulb means the left side as I'm facing forward), but I did check both and reinstalled them all. Outside of the flashers cycling faster, maybe twice as fast as the oem bulbs, they seem to work fine. Any ideas?
 
#26 ·
So I took @Peddles2Paddles advice and bought these bulbs. They work great and they were a snap to install. However, I get a dashboard error message when I turn on just the flashers,: "Left Bulb Error". Both sides are working properly (I assume "left" bulb means the left side as I'm facing forward), but I did check both and reinstalled them all. Outside of the flashers cycling faster, maybe twice as fast as the oem bulbs, they seem to work fine. Any ideas?
I also took the op's advice (and I have been considering it for years, but my first foray led to bulbs that wouldn't fit in the fender lamp housings, so I gave up for a while) and I have no problems with any bulb error indications. 2013 year 1025R here. So glad he posted about this as it lit the fire under me to get it done.

--Jeff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
The OEM flashers are normal automotive #1156 bulbs. They are 27 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 8 watts each. And they are significantly brighter and more attention getting with the snappy on-off. I actually had these in the headlights of my 425 and swapped them into the 1026r this morning. The only issue is you will get the bulb warning on the dash when the flashers are on. I don't really care.
:good2:
 
#27 ·
FYI, the bulb errors will only show up on the display when you have the flashers on and and the key on. If you have the flashers on without the key on, you will not get an error.
 
#30 ·
My 2018 1025R Headlight bulbs

Just wanted to post before someone makes same mistake I made -
All just an fyi, I purchased the JDM LED bulbs from the first post of this thread without looking
at my bulbs found that for whatever reason I have H4 halogen bulbs for my headlights and the
led bulbs wont fit. Plug and way it installs are totally different.
 
#31 ·
for whatever reason I have H4 halogen bulbs for my headlights and the
led bulbs wont fit. Plug and way it installs are totally different.
Is/was there a halogen upgrade kit for the 1025? I think such a thing existed for the garden tractors. If you have that upgrade kit, you would need LED H4s.
 
#32 ·
I have a 2018 1025R too and also noticed that the headlight connector doesn't match the JDM LED connector type. Maybe this is another difference between the 2018s and previous model years?

Image
 

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#33 ·
I use H4/9003 bulbs for headlights. They are extremely bright. I had them in my 1025R and now in the 2032R. The ones I got aren't available anymore, but these are similar:

https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Headlight-8000Lumens-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B06XHD78DQ/

The rubber seals on the back of the original bulbs won't fit with these, but that doesn't see to be an issue. I pressure wash my tractor and have left it out in the rain without problems. These bulbs whine when you turn them on, as there is a little cooling fan in the housing (at least mine do, not sure about the ones I linked).
 
#35 ·
I found a link to these exact BEAMTECH H4/9003 bulbs somewhere either here or on Facebook a while back, & I installed them on my new 2018 1025R a couple of weekends ago. I bought the optional Deere LED work light package & the factory halogen headlights seemed pretty weak & an ugly yellow light in comparison. I haven't used them much, but in my limited usage so far they seem to have made a nice difference. I haven't noticed a whine from a fan or anything, but I suppose it might be there. I assumed they just have the fins in the rear to dissipate the heat.

I was bummed originally when I discovered that I wouldn't be able to use the rubber seal boots (it also looked like it would be a pain to get the hold down wires in place due to the extra bulk sticking out the back of the bulb) until I found a thread here where someone else installed these. On this particular brand & type of bulb if you twist & then pull, the flange that gets captured under the wire in the headlight housing will come off of the bulb shaft. The rubber seal boots can be used if you cut out the small center part that has the holes for the prongs to fit around the bulb shaft.

I trimmed out the center of the rubber seal by trial & error until I could just barely get the bulb to push through & twist lock into the flange with the seal behind it at my work bench. Then I took off the flange, put it in the headlight housing & fastened it in with the wire hold down. I then put the rubber seal boot over the back of the headlight housing & installed the new bulb by pushing it through the hole in the seal & twisting it until it locked in the collar. Then I just had to plug it in & I was good to go. The way I did it the rubber boot seems to have a really good seal & I don't think I'll need to worry about water or dust & dirt getting in.

As an FYI to anyone considering upgrading the headlight bulbs to LED, the latest parts catalog for the 1025R, PC13294, lists part number AXE16948 as the bulb for the head lights & the two fender work lights. This is the 862 type bulb that folks are swapping out with the JDM ASTAR 881 type bulbs from Amazon. I don't know when the change to H4 type bulbs in the headlights was made & if it was a permanent change, but the current Deere parts catalog doesn't list them. My new 2018 1025R FILB has the H4 type bulbs. I would suggest taking a look to see if you have the 862 type or H4 type headlight bulbs before spending money on anything.
 
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#37 ·
Whoops!

k...Ordered the recommended bulbs and sorry to say they won't work! My headlights have a 3 prong plug and the replacement bulbs are only 2 prong.. no one's fault but mine! Should've looked at my tractor before ordering!!!
 
#38 ·
k...Ordered the recommended bulbs and sorry to say they won't work! My headlights have a 3 prong plug and the replacement bulbs are only 2 prong.. no one's fault but mine! Should've looked at my tractor before ordering!!!
Guessing you have H4 halogens that a few people here have reported having. IDK when JD started using those, guessing maybe 2018+?
 
#41 ·
It's raining. I can't do work, and I'm waiting for maintenance supplies coming tomorrow. So time to play with lights. LED replacement bulbs in the headlights, work lights, flashers, and taillights. And added some side facing lights I had laying around.


The OEM headlights and fender work lights are normal automotive #862 bulbs, despite having a special green part number. Usually used for fog lights on cars and trucks. They are 38 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 5 watts. This is a total 11 amp load reduction on the alternator and battery.
Amazon.com: JDM ASTAR Bright White Max 50W High Power 881 LED Fog Light Bulbs: Automotive


The OEM flashers are normal automotive #1156 bulbs. They are 27 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 8 watts each. And they are significantly brighter and more attention getting with the snappy on-off. I actually had these in the headlights of my 425 and swapped them into the 1026r this morning. The only issue is you will get the bulb warning on the dash when the flashers are on. I don't really care. If you have a 1025r, I presume this is the same bulb used for the red tail light?
Amazon.com: LUYED 2 X 1700 Lumens Extremely Bright 1156 4014 102-EX Chipsets 1156 1141 1003 7506 LED Bulbs Used For Backup Reverse Lights,Xenon White(Brightest LED in market): Automotive


For the 1026r's tiny little red tail light, that is a normal automotive #194 bulb. They use 4 watts each. The LED replacements are 2 watts each and definitely brighter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GYRGH6/

In total, this is a 13 amp load off the alternator/battery. All of the lights are now brighter and more effective. And frankly it looks really sharp IMO.

Then I also had some LED marker lights laying around in a box. So I put them into the sides of the flasher/tails on the ROPS. Red marker light comes on with the taillight. And the amber marker flashes with the flasher.
The 2018 and newer 1025Rs have a much different light in the headlights. The lights listed here for the headlights will not work. I just went to my Deere dealer and confirmed the change.

rob
 
#42 ·
The 2018 and newer 1025Rs have a much different light in the headlights. The lights listed here for the headlights will not work. I just went to my Deere dealer and confirmed the change.
Yes, that was discussed in this thread...
 
#43 ·
These are the ones I used for my 2019 1025r:

headlights three prong fit rubber boot direct replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RED Brake lights - same direct replacement:

YELLOW hazards also direct replacement

I ordered with Oem led work lights. This converts all over to led, noerror messages. Brighter lights.
 
#44 ·
Don't you want white light LEDs for use in fixtures that have colored lenses? It seems to me that I recall from reading somewhere else that red bulbs behind red lenses doesn't work as well for brightness. Maybe I am mistaken, but that is what I remember about this.
 
#50 ·
It's a fair comparison because none of the products on the market are like that. A 1156 replacement LED bulb in red is the same size and form of a 1156 replacement LED bulb in white. The white 1156 LED produces significantly more lumens than the 1156 red LED. There is no such thing as a replacement LED bulb for these things where the same lumen output exists across the color options. The white bulb you buy for that thing will be way brighter than the red bulb. Therefore putting the white one behind the red lens will produce way more red light for you.

This is why I have white 1156 and 1157 LED replacements in both the red and the amber lights. The end result is way brighter red and amber light than had I used Amber and red LEDs.
 
#55 ·
Digi-key has about 50,000 different LED types available. I live in a world where I pick the LED I want with the characteristics I like from that group. You are comparing from the handful of different LED bulbs that someone has designed and manufactured to replace a clear incandescent bulb. A designer could choose to design a red 1156 replacement bulb, and if he chooses, that red bulb could be insanely brighter than a white bulb. It would have much less waste heat than a white LED used inside the red lens.

Here is the LED place that has a wide selection: various 1156 bulbs
You will find they have 1156 bulbs with 3 different white color temperatures, or red or amber, listed at 325 lumens (among others). I suggest you try buying one of these in red, amber, and white. You'll find the red is brighter than the white when behind a red lens (if they are not lying about the exact lumen output they advertise). It's physics.

(disclaimer: I have bought from the superbrightled web site several times, and have always been happy with what they sold me)
 
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#51 · (Edited)
Great thread, thanks pedals2paddles. I can see this will require a legal pad and pen to review the thread, take notes and hopefully be lit up for Christmass!!!
 
#53 ·
I hadn’t made a list yet. I plan to order later and was wondering if the additional lights I had installed at the dealer when I bought the rig can be upgraded or are already LED. Two on the brush guards and one rear work light. All three are from JD. I also have to reread the thread to clarify exactly what a I need to order. It’s a bit harder for me since my TBI.
 
#54 ·
I think JD sells both LED and halogen add-on lights. Send a picture and we'll be able to tell you.