[Pedals2Paddles]

Thanks for sharing! Have you noticed the headlights being brighter?

Curious if there are flasher bulbs available that won’t trigger the bulb warning.

You probably won't find bulbs of this type that handle it due to the heat it would generate. I also don't want to install load resistors, which would also satisfy the control unit, since that would defeat the reduced load on the alternator.

I'll take some pictures once it gets dark.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Here's a panorama of the headlights and work lights. And a shot of the tractor. Best I can do in the cold rain wearing shorts and sandles.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

1
So, watt do you plan to do with the extra whats?

Add more lights, obviously ?

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

What bulbs are those? And are the bulbs all the same (headlights, side lights, rops work lights)?

See the first post Headlights and fender work lights are the same. I don't have ROPS work lights. However I would be willing to bet they're the same.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Lots of numbers are the same design and get summarized with one common number. That is the correct LED replacement for it that I used.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

The ROPS LED lights are completely different. I don't think there is a way to replace them without replacing the whole assembly.

If the lights JD has for the ROPS on the 1025 are already LED, then this would certainly be moot for those. No need to replace them if they're already LEDs. Does the 1025R come with ROPS work lights, or is it an add-on option?

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

I have a 1026r and it has 8 lights in total. None are LED. The battery light comes on at idle when the lights are on.

If you have a 1026, then you can do what I did in the original post. Headlights, fender work lights, flashers, and tail lights. If you have other lights in addition to what I have (such as work lights on the ROPS), and they are not already LEDs, then you'll have to take the bulb out to see what it is. I can only guess they are the same as the fender lights, but you will need to check for yourself to see.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Is this really the first anyone's done this? I figured I would be late to the game, but I have a bit of an obsession with light and did it anyway.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

The OEM flashers are normal automotive #1156 bulbs. They are 27 watts each. The LED replacement uses only 8 watts each. And they are significantly brighter and more attention getting with the snappy on-off. I actually had these in the headlights of my 425 and swapped them into the 1026r this morning. The only issue is you will get the bulb warning on the dash when the flashers are on. I don't really care.

:good2:

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

FYI, the bulb errors will only show up on the display when you have the flashers on and and the key on. If you have the flashers on without the key on, you will not get an error.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

for whatever reason I have H4 halogen bulbs for my headlights and the
led bulbs wont fit. Plug and way it installs are totally different.

Is/was there a halogen upgrade kit for the 1025? I think such a thing existed for the garden tractors. If you have that upgrade kit, you would need LED H4s.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

k...Ordered the recommended bulbs and sorry to say they won't work! My headlights have a 3 prong plug and the replacement bulbs are only 2 prong.. no one's fault but mine! Should've looked at my tractor before ordering!!!

Guessing you have H4 halogens that a few people here have reported having. IDK when JD started using those, guessing maybe 2018+?

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

The 2018 and newer 1025Rs have a much different light in the headlights. The lights listed here for the headlights will not work. I just went to my Deere dealer and confirmed the change.

Yes, that was discussed in this thread...

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Also, I think an H4 3 prong bulb has both high and low beams, don't we want just a H1 (low beam?) bulb? Does the tractor have a high beam switch? does it just energize both the high and low elements at once?

The 2018+ uses H4 bulbs with high and low beam. JD only connects the low beam. Mine is re-wired so the high beams comes with the work lights setting on the switch.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

It shouldn't be a problem. A red LED behind a red lens should put out as much light as a red LED behind a clear lens.
The lens will cut down on all light transmission a little - if it is a red lens it is a band pass filter for red light, and ALL (except for the losses of the lens itself - present if clear or red) of the light from a red LED will pass. having a lens (red OR clear) will cutdown a little bit of light, but better than having your LED's out in the elements.

It's not the lens, it's the LED. A red LED produces way way less lumens than a comparable white LED of the same size and form. Putting a white LED in the red taillight will produce much brighter red light out the lens than a red LED behind the red lens. Also, the red lens is NOT bandpass. There is significant loss passing through it. A red LED alone without the lens will be much brighter than a red LED behind a red lens.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

It's a fair comparison because none of the products on the market are like that. A 1156 replacement LED bulb in red is the same size and form of a 1156 replacement LED bulb in white. The white 1156 LED produces significantly more lumens than the 1156 red LED. There is no such thing as a replacement LED bulb for these things where the same lumen output exists across the color options. The white bulb you buy for that thing will be way brighter than the red bulb. Therefore putting the white one behind the red lens will produce way more red light for you.

This is why I have white 1156 and 1157 LED replacements in both the red and the amber lights. The end result is way brighter red and amber light than had I used Amber and red LEDs.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

I hadn’t made a list yet. I plan to order later and was wondering if the additional lights I had installed at the dealer when I bought the rig can be upgraded or are already LED. Two on the brush guards and one rear work light. All three are from JD. I also have to reread the thread to clarify exactly what a I need to order. It’s a bit harder for me since my TBI.

I think JD sells both LED and halogen add-on lights. Send a picture and we'll be able to tell you.

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Digi-key has about 50,000 different LED types available. I live in a world where I pick the LED I want with the characteristics I like from that group. You are comparing from the handful of different LED bulbs that someone has designed and manufactured to replace a clear incandescent bulb. A designer could choose to design a red 1156 replacement bulb, and if he chooses, that red bulb could be insanely brighter than a white bulb. It would have much less waste heat than a white LED used inside the red lens.

But we're not talking about designing a custom LED lamp engineering a whole new contraption from scratch with parts from digikey here. We're talking about replacing the incandescent 1156 bulb in there now with a commercially available 1156 LED. And every one of the commercially available LED 1156 replacement bulbs in red are way way way dimmer than their white models. What you're suggesting, that they are all the same lumens, is not possible due to physics . You are reading the specifications wrong on those. The 325 lumen spec is for one of the white models, not all of them. Look down at the specification chart on the product pages. The red ones are generally 50-80 lumens, and the white ones are generally 200-400 lumens.

I've been buying LED replacement bulbs and other LED gizmos from SuperBrightLEDs, vLEDs, and random amazon vendors for about 20 years now. Every vehicle I've ever owned inside and out. Tractors, flashlights, etc. If there is bulb I can replace with LED, it has been done. I'm quite familiar with it.