[dieselshadow]

Yessir. Any of the threads referring to a 2520 or a 2720 will work as reference to your 2032R. They are pretty much identical especially when it comes to the hydraulic system. :good2:

 

[kennbull]

2020 power beyond

This forum has been extremely helpful to me in many ways while acquiring my 2520 and I thought I would try and give back a little.

Before I get started a lot of background info to do this was collected off this forum and most of it came from KennyD in one post or another.

I just really wanted to put together a consolidated list of parts to do PB on a 2520. I am very happy how this came out and I think I have about $65 into it instead of the $300 kit from Deere. Maybe this will help some folks save some money.

Parts List from Deere:
PT13744 John Deere Plug
M808060 John Deere Label (In/Out Sticker - Very Optional)

Hydraulic Parts (I am going to put these in the order of hydraulic flow starting from the "Out" port on the tractor hydraulic block and ending on the "In" port of the hydraulic block):
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead (Steel)
3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Set ISO Series B NPTF (Steel)
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPTF Male (Steel)
3/8" X 12" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel (Steel)
3/8" JIC x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead Union with Locknut (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long (Steel)


I used 30" hoses because they were pre-made and cheap. They are very nice and fit very well however 27" would have been ideal. I also did it in all 3/8ths and #6 so I didn't have to adapt any sizes and that worked out well. Last my quick disconnect set on my BH46 was ISO Series B so I just went with that. Check your backhoe or if you don't have one you really can get whichever ones you want.


Step 0
Remove right rear tire from the tractor. Remove the hydraulic block from the tractor. This will require removing the two hex bolts from the loader valve and sliding the block out toward the back of the tractor (it is behind the valve). One of the banjo bolts attaching a line to the valve will need to be removed to gain access to the hex bolt.

Step 1
Remove the 3 caps from the hydraulic block. Insert the plug (PT13744) through the opening and reinstall the cap. In the "Out" port install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB fitting then connect the 30" hose to that. Next install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long fitting in the "In" port and attach a 30" hose to that.

The normal 90 and double long 90 fit perfect. It looks tight but there is an air gap. To get them to fit you have to install in the order above.

Step 2
Put the block back in the tractor, install hex bolts and banjo fitting.

Step 3
Drill out the bracket on the back of the tractor to fit the bulkhead connectors. I am not sure what this was intended for by Deere but it works great for this.Install bulkheads and connect 30" hoses to them under the bracket. Install the NPT bulkhead in the hole near the fender and the JIC one toward the middle of the tractor.

Step 4
Attach the female quick disconnect to the NPT bulkhead (Use proper sealant). Attach the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPT Male fitting to the male quick disconnect (use proper sealant). Attach the 12" hose and then use the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel to attach to the JIC bulkhead.

Step 5
Add decal M808060 to make it look more factory.

All in all it works great. The only thing I am going to keep an eye out for is a shorter female quick disconnect so it protrudes less.

Is it is OK to post I purchased the hoses from Surplus Center and The fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

i wish i could see the pics of the 2520 power beyond
i have a 2020 need to do same

 

[RandyM]

i wish i could see the pics of the 2520 power beyond

Me too! This is exactly the problem with third party picture hosting. It is highly encouraged to post pictures directly to the site.

i have a 2020 need to do same

My guess is that this for the newer MCUT and not the older utility tractor with the same model number. Not sure how much it'd really help you. :unknown:

By the way, welcome to GTT.

 

[HYMD]

Power Beyond 3039R

i wish i could see the pics of the 2520 power beyond
i have a 2020 need to do same

This is a great DIY instruction, including parts list and pictures, for the 2520! Has anyone put this together for the John Deere 3 series - 3039R or 3046R?

:greentractorride:

 

[Kennyd]

This is a great DIY instruction, including parts list and pictures, for the 2520! Has anyone put this together for the John Deere 3 series - 3039R or 3046R?

:greentractorride:

Welcome from Westminster,
I've seen seen that for a 3-series yet.

 

[Hoju]

Awesome write up. Going to be digging into this shortly. One question though. How do you release the pressure in the line before you disconnect your quick connect fitting? Just turn the tractor off, and the pressure drops because it's an open loop, and there's no valve to hold it?

 

[dieselshadow]

With the engine off, simply wiggle the loader joystick and any possible pressure left in the system will be relieved. Make sure the loader is sitting in the ground before doing this if it’s installed.

 

[Walsh029]

I signed up to the forum just to say thanks! Did this on my 2520 to a 46bh last weekend. Everything worked great and saved $550 on what the JD dealer wanted. The quick connect couplers were different going to the 46bh but everything else was spot on!

 

[aroark]

Question. My 2520 already has the John Deere Third SCV. I bought a 46 backhoe for the tractor and plan on using your power beyond DIY setup. Does the Third SCV utilize the same ports on the tractor? I assume that they do. Just a supply and return port, correct? This explains why JD says the two set ups are incompatible together. If both setups include come from the same supply and return, then I probably can just use those lines that already come to the third SCV. At least the 90 degree elbows I should already have. Once I determine that the hoses are the correct length and get the ends of them to match your fittings, I should be set. Here is the thing. I guess I want to keep the Third SCV too. So Can I just put it in series with this set up? If I was using the backhoe, the return would just go throught the third SCV and back to the tractor unhindered, like it does right now, right? If I can't do this, I might just get some more quick connects so I can use either system.

 

[aroark]

Valve

Jeremy, here is the valve I put in for my grapple. 3 function open center, works great.

So are you saying this valve is in series with the Power Beyond? Could I have my backhoe set up in series with my Third SCV?

 

[Kennyd]

Question. My 2520 already has the John Deere Third SCV. I bought a 46 backhoe for the tractor and plan on using your power beyond DIY setup. Does the Third SCV utilize the same ports on the tractor? I assume that they do. Just a supply and return port, correct? This explains why JD says the two set ups are incompatible together. If both setups include come from the same supply and return, then I probably can just use those lines that already come to the third SCV. At least the 90 degree elbows I should already have. Once I determine that the hoses are the correct length and get the ends of them to match your fittings, I should be set. Here is the thing. I guess I want to keep the Third SCV too. So Can I just put it in series with this set up? If I was using the backhoe, the return would just go throught the third SCV and back to the tractor unhindered, like it does right now, right? If I can't do this, I might just get some more quick connects so I can use either system.

Welcome.
Yes, same ports are used so that's why you can't have both.

Rather than plumb it in series, I would setup it up with QD's so you can have either the valve OR the backhoe connected.

 

[aroark]

Welcome.
Yes, same ports are used so that's why you can't have both.

Rather than plumb it in series, I would setup it up with QD's so you can have either the valve OR the backhoe connected.

Thanks for the advise. I was just thinking in series would be cool, if that would work, so I could plumb a hydraulic thumb in line while using the backhoe. Any thoughts why this would not work?

 

[Kennyd]

It has to do with possible back pressure on the OUT side of the valve, they are generally only rated for 500 psi or so. The proper way to plumb valve in series is to have what’s called a power beyond plug in the valve, this way the waste oil from the valve gets returned directly to the tank and doesn’t see any back pressure. In the hydraulics forum there is lots of threads detailing this and other details about adding a remote valve.

 

[Sugrshan3]

Thanks for a great write up! I just bought a 2520 and this saved me over $400 from JD. The only problem I had was I could not for the life of me get the pipe plug screwed down into the block. It went easy halfway, I tried Freezing it, heating it, grease and eventually stripped the Allen head. now it’s blocking 1/3 the port. Should I try to extract it then retap the threads or just drill through the corner of it so it doesn’t slow the flow down?

 

[mussermike]

Thanks for a great write up! I just bought a 2520 and this saved me over $400 from JD. The only problem I had was I could not for the life of me get the pipe plug screwed down into the block. It went easy halfway, I tried Freezing it, heating it, grease and eventually stripped the Allen head. now it’s blocking 1/3 the port. Should I try to extract it then retap the threads or just drill through the corner of it so it doesn’t slow the flow down?

I had the same issue you seem to have. Here is the thread. They had to run a tap and clean out the threads.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...eyond-kit.134666/&share_tid=134666&share_fid=37868&share_type=t&link_source=app

[/URL]

2032r gen1

 

[Ken Hoskins]

This forum has been extremely helpful to me in many ways while acquiring my 2520 and I thought I would try and give back a little.

Before I get started a lot of background info to do this was collected off this forum and most of it came from KennyD in one post or another.

I just really wanted to put together a consolidated list of parts to do PB on a 2520. I am very happy how this came out and I think I have about $65 into it instead of the $300 kit from Deere. Maybe this will help some folks save some money.

Parts List from Deere:
PT13744 John Deere Plug
M808060 John Deere Label (In/Out Sticker - Very Optional)

Hydraulic Parts (I am going to put these in the order of hydraulic flow starting from the "Out" port on the tractor hydraulic block and ending on the "In" port of the hydraulic block):
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead (Steel)
3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Set ISO Series B NPTF (Steel)
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPTF Male (Steel)
3/8" X 12" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel (Steel)
3/8" JIC x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead Union with Locknut (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long (Steel)


I used 30" hoses because they were pre-made and cheap. They are very nice and fit very well however 27" would have been ideal. I also did it in all 3/8ths and #6 so I didn't have to adapt any sizes and that worked out well. Last my quick disconnect set on my BH46 was ISO Series B so I just went with that. Check your backhoe or if you don't have one you really can get whichever ones you want.


Step 0
Remove right rear tire from the tractor. Remove the hydraulic block from the tractor. This will require removing the two hex bolts from the loader valve and sliding the block out toward the back of the tractor (it is behind the valve). One of the banjo bolts attaching a line to the valve will need to be removed to gain access to the hex bolt.

Step 1
Remove the 3 caps from the hydraulic block. Insert the plug (PT13744) through the opening and reinstall the cap. In the "Out" port install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB fitting then connect the 30" hose to that. Next install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long fitting in the "In" port and attach a 30" hose to that.

The normal 90 and double long 90 fit perfect. It looks tight but there is an air gap. To get them to fit you have to install in the order above.

Step 2
Put the block back in the tractor, install hex bolts and banjo fitting.

Step 3
Drill out the bracket on the back of the tractor to fit the bulkhead connectors. I am not sure what this was intended for by Deere but it works great for this.Install bulkheads and connect 30" hoses to them under the bracket. Install the NPT bulkhead in the hole near the fender and the JIC one toward the middle of the tractor.

Step 4
Attach the female quick disconnect to the NPT bulkhead (Use proper sealant). Attach the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPT Male fitting to the male quick disconnect (use proper sealant). Attach the 12" hose and then use the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel to attach to the JIC bulkhead.

Step 5
Add decal M808060 to make it look more factory.

All in all it works great. The only thing I am going to keep an eye out for is a shorter female quick disconnect so it protrudes less.

Is it is OK to post I purchased the hoses from Surplus Center and The fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

This forum has been extremely helpful to me in many ways while acquiring my 2520 and I thought I would try and give back a little.

Before I get started a lot of background info to do this was collected off this forum and most of it came from KennyD in one post or another.

I just really wanted to put together a consolidated list of parts to do PB on a 2520. I am very happy how this came out and I think I have about $65 into it instead of the $300 kit from Deere. Maybe this will help some folks save some money.

Parts List from Deere:
PT13744 John Deere Plug
M808060 John Deere Label (In/Out Sticker - Very Optional)

Hydraulic Parts (I am going to put these in the order of hydraulic flow starting from the "Out" port on the tractor hydraulic block and ending on the "In" port of the hydraulic block):
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead (Steel)
3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Set ISO Series B NPTF (Steel)
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPTF Male (Steel)
3/8" X 12" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel (Steel)
3/8" JIC x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead Union with Locknut (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long (Steel)


I used 30" hoses because they were pre-made and cheap. They are very nice and fit very well however 27" would have been ideal. I also did it in all 3/8ths and #6 so I didn't have to adapt any sizes and that worked out well. Last my quick disconnect set on my BH46 was ISO Series B so I just went with that. Check your backhoe or if you don't have one you really can get whichever ones you want.


Step 0
Remove right rear tire from the tractor. Remove the hydraulic block from the tractor. This will require removing the two hex bolts from the loader valve and sliding the block out toward the back of the tractor (it is behind the valve). One of the banjo bolts attaching a line to the valve will need to be removed to gain access to the hex bolt.

Step 1
Remove the 3 caps from the hydraulic block. Insert the plug (PT13744) through the opening and reinstall the cap. In the "Out" port install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB fitting then connect the 30" hose to that. Next install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long fitting in the "In" port and attach a 30" hose to that.

The normal 90 and double long 90 fit perfect. It looks tight but there is an air gap. To get them to fit you have to install in the order above.

Step 2
Put the block back in the tractor, install hex bolts and banjo fitting.

Step 3
Drill out the bracket on the back of the tractor to fit the bulkhead connectors. I am not sure what this was intended for by Deere but it works great for this.Install bulkheads and connect 30" hoses to them under the bracket. Install the NPT bulkhead in the hole near the fender and the JIC one toward the middle of the tractor.

Step 4
Attach the female quick disconnect to the NPT bulkhead (Use proper sealant). Attach the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPT Male fitting to the male quick disconnect (use proper sealant). Attach the 12" hose and then use the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel to attach to the JIC bulkhead.

Step 5
Add decal M808060 to make it look more factory.

All in all it works great. The only thing I am going to keep an eye out for is a shorter female quick disconnect so it protrudes less.

Is it is OK to post I purchased the hoses from Surplus Center and The fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

I also have a 2520 and when I bought it new, my dealer said there was no option for aux hydraulics.
So I bought 2 two port 2 way valves (2 input, and 2 sets of 2 output).
Cut the lines that go from the joy stick block down to the couplers that control the loader and brought them up to the valves (one in and one out to each valve mounted on back of tractor) then routed one set of lines back down to the coupler then the other set to a pair of couplers mounted on the ROP to provide aux hydraulic power to towed implements. Done the same thing with the remaining lines to the second valve but instead of going to another aux coupler I removed the third link arm and replaced if with a cylinder and ran those hoses to it.)
Summary with both valves in the out position the loader and the curl work just like it did before I did anything. If you close the left valve (both valves can be reached from the seat) then the curl function controls the cylinder on the third link (this is extremely helpful when using the box blade also handy when trying to connect to three point equipment) loader still goes up and down as normal. If you close the right valve the joy stick controls what ever you have attached to the aux connectors. I done this about 5 years ago and have had no problems.

 

[Ken Hoskins]

I think I put my reply in the wrong place so here is another try.
I also have a 2520 and when I bought it new, my dealer said there was no option for aux hydraulics.
So I bought 2 two port 2 way valves (2 input, and 2 sets of 2 output).
Cut the lines that go from the joy stick block down to the couplers that control the loader and brought them up to the valves (one in and one out to each valve mounted on back of tractor) then routed one set of lines back down to the coupler then the other set to a pair of couplers mounted on the ROP to provide aux hydraulic power to towed implements. Done the same thing with the remaining lines to the second valve but instead of going to another aux coupler I removed the third link arm and replaced if with a cylinder and ran those hoses to it.)
Summary with both valves in the out position the loader and the curl work just like it did before I did anything. If you close the left valve (both valves can be reached from the seat) then the curl function controls the cylinder on the third link (this is extremely helpful when using the box blade also handy when trying to connect to three point equipment) loader still goes up and down as normal. If you close the right valve the joy stick controls what ever you have attached to the aux connectors. I done this about 5 years ago and have had no problems. Bought cylinder and valves from Baily Hydraulics.

 

[Linc]

Great guide. Thanks for the info!

 

[Brickfoot]

Great write up. Can this be done on a 2320? Or is the hydro sys completely different? Thanks.

I used this guide to add PB to my 2320 (model year 2010). It worked, with a couple small tweaks.

There was not enough space to connect the two hoses that come from the hydraulic block to the bulkhead fittings. I added two JIC 6F x JIC 6M 90 degree elbow fittings, connecting them to the bulkhead fittings behind the bracket. These point straight down and I attached the hoses to these elbows.

After adding the two 90 degree elbows, 24” hoses were a better fit than the 30” hoses.

The ORB to JIC 90 degree adapters that connect to the hydraulic block could not be installed in line with the block as shown in the OP pics. I had to angle them slightly outwards instead to avoid conflicts between the hoses and the ROPS support structure/bracket and a bolt on the transmission/axle.

It works great now. I used the same suppliers per the OP for all the components, and I bought the small plug from my local JD dealer (the part number for this plug has changed).

 

[Kennyd]

(the part number for this plug has changed).

OK...what is it now?