How do you control the pressure at those added ports? I mean, how do you use it? Do you use one of the loader joystick functions, or is this just a pressurized line that you would need to mount an implement with a valve to use?

Pardon my questions if this is all explained somewhere else.

I could see a use for this, and the cost is very reasonable.

 

How do you control the pressure at those added ports? I mean, how do you use it? Do you use one of the loader joystick functions, or is this just a pressurized line that you would need to mount an implement with a valve to use?

Pardon my questions if this is all explained somewhere else.

I could see a use for this, and the cost is very reasonable.

Andy, the short answer is "you don't". These lines have the full flow of the hydraulic pump, about 5.xx GPM whenever the tractor is running, that's why the loop is there. It's used for things that have their own valves like a backhoe or log splitter.

 

Jeremy: Wow, Great job :thumbup1gif: Perfect explanation and great pictures, this will surly help other in the future!

Feel free to post where you got your stuff and any links you want-we have no problems with that whatsoever.

 

Jeremy: Wow, Great job :thumbup1gif: Perfect explaination and great pictures, this will surly help other in the future!

Feel free to post where you got your stuff and any links you want-we no problems with that whatsoever.

DITTO!!:thumbup1gif:

So could you tee off of those rear fittings and go to a joystick valve?


Greg

 

Awesome job on both the install and the write-up!:good2: Looks very professional. I really like your use of the extended 90 fitting.

 

Valve

Jeremy, here is the valve I put in for my grapple. 3 function open center, works great.

 

Valve

Jeremy, here is the valve I put in for my grapple. 3 function open center, works great.

So are you saying this valve is in series with the Power Beyond? Could I have my backhoe set up in series with my Third SCV?

 

Awesome write up.

 

:munch:
Take some pics! I want to do the same thing and add two remotes. Looking forward to this!

 

Think of the hydraulic system like a garden hose. With the water valve open, the water flows through out the end. The valve represents the pump and the end of the hose the tank. If you need some water (hydraulic power) then you would interrupt the flow by cutting into the hose to install your tap (scv) and return the rest back to the remaining hose to flow down to other taps and eventually to flow out the end. If you were to tap into the hose with a tee, the water pressure available in either hose will be close to none when you needed the pressure. The water would flow easier out the other hose opposite of the one you needed pressure. In this system all taps (scv's) need to be one after the other in order for the system to build the pressure needed to to work. Our open center system valves allow the flow straight through when the valve is not being operated. It's almost like the valve isn't even there until you move the lever or joystick. The flow and pressure is available to all valves until one is operated and it closes off the downstream flow to redirect it to a cylinder. The unused hydraulic fluid from the cylinder is returned back the main line downstream to the other valves but only at the pressure the return side of the operating cylinder is producing. Any valve downstream of the operating valve gets the return flow at this reduced pressure and will not operate well until the upstream valve is returned back to neutral. So if we T'd into the pressure line somewhere between these valves, we essentially provide a straight shot back to the tank and not allow the system to produce the pressure needed anything beyond either downstream side of the T.


I hope this makes sense.:lol:

 

I threw together a quick picture below to help explain it. With open center valves like on our tractors when the valve is not being used it just passes fluid through it like it is not there. Basically if you look at the valves in series any valve will have pressure when opened as the fluid has to pass through it. If you look at the parallel picture which is what would happen with the "T" when you use valve 2 the fluid will take the path of least resistance and pass through valve 1 on its way back to the hydraulic block giving no hydraulic pressure to the valve you need.

 

Great write up. Can this be done on a 2320? Or is the hydro sys completely different? Thanks.

 

The 2320 is slightly different, but you can certainly add remotes to it if you have time and money:good2:

 

Thank You saved big bucks with your idea

Hey Jeremy, just wanted to thank you for the great job of the pictures and parts list for the power beyond unit.
I got the fittings from hydraulics direct for about $60.00 I got the plug and decal from JD online. and purchased the lines local.
I have about $120.00 all together in parts. Our local JD dealer wanted $500.00 just for the power beyond unit.(not installed).
It was a breeze putting it all together. a lot of fun too.I hooked up the 46hoe and went to town.
Thanks again for for your time putting it on this forum.Robbie:bigthumb:

 

Will this work on a 2032R?

I have a 2032R ansd would like to add this feature, I know the trans are similar, will this work?

 

Yessir. Any of the threads referring to a 2520 or a 2720 will work as reference to your 2032R. They are pretty much identical especially when it comes to the hydraulic system. :good2:

 

2020 power beyond



i wish i could see the pics of the 2520 power beyond
i have a 2020 need to do same

 

i wish i could see the pics of the 2520 power beyond

Me too! This is exactly the problem with third party picture hosting. It is highly encouraged to post pictures directly to the site.

i have a 2020 need to do same

My guess is that this for the newer MCUT and not the older utility tractor with the same model number. Not sure how much it'd really help you. :unknown:

By the way, welcome to GTT.

 

Awesome write up. Going to be digging into this shortly. One question though. How do you release the pressure in the line before you disconnect your quick connect fitting? Just turn the tractor off, and the pressure drops because it's an open loop, and there's no valve to hold it?

 

With the engine off, simply wiggle the loader joystick and any possible pressure left in the system will be relieved. Make sure the loader is sitting in the ground before doing this if it’s installed.

 

I signed up to the forum just to say thanks! Did this on my 2520 to a 46bh last weekend. Everything worked great and saved $550 on what the JD dealer wanted. The quick connect couplers were different going to the 46bh but everything else was spot on!

 

Question. My 2520 already has the John Deere Third SCV. I bought a 46 backhoe for the tractor and plan on using your power beyond DIY setup. Does the Third SCV utilize the same ports on the tractor? I assume that they do. Just a supply and return port, correct? This explains why JD says the two set ups are incompatible together. If both setups include come from the same supply and return, then I probably can just use those lines that already come to the third SCV. At least the 90 degree elbows I should already have. Once I determine that the hoses are the correct length and get the ends of them to match your fittings, I should be set. Here is the thing. I guess I want to keep the Third SCV too. So Can I just put it in series with this set up? If I was using the backhoe, the return would just go throught the third SCV and back to the tractor unhindered, like it does right now, right? If I can't do this, I might just get some more quick connects so I can use either system.

 

Welcome.
Yes, same ports are used so that's why you can't have both.

Rather than plumb it in series, I would setup it up with QD's so you can have either the valve OR the backhoe connected.

 

It has to do with possible back pressure on the OUT side of the valve, they are generally only rated for 500 psi or so. The proper way to plumb valve in series is to have what’s called a power beyond plug in the valve, this way the waste oil from the valve gets returned directly to the tank and doesn’t see any back pressure. In the hydraulics forum there is lots of threads detailing this and other details about adding a remote valve.

 

Thanks for a great write up! I just bought a 2520 and this saved me over $400 from JD. The only problem I had was I could not for the life of me get the pipe plug screwed down into the block. It went easy halfway, I tried Freezing it, heating it, grease and eventually stripped the Allen head. now it’s blocking 1/3 the port. Should I try to extract it then retap the threads or just drill through the corner of it so it doesn’t slow the flow down?

 

I had the same issue you seem to have. Here is the thread. They had to run a tap and clean out the threads.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...eyond-kit.134666/&share_tid=134666&share_fid=37868&share_type=t&link_source=app

[/URL]

2032r gen1

 

This forum has been extremely helpful to me in many ways while acquiring my 2520 and I thought I would try and give back a little.

Before I get started a lot of background info to do this was collected off this forum and most of it came from KennyD in one post or another.

I just really wanted to put together a consolidated list of parts to do PB on a 2520. I am very happy how this came out and I think I have about $65 into it instead of the $300 kit from Deere. Maybe this will help some folks save some money.

Parts List from Deere:
PT13744 John Deere Plug
M808060 John Deere Label (In/Out Sticker - Very Optional)

Hydraulic Parts (I am going to put these in the order of hydraulic flow starting from the "Out" port on the tractor hydraulic block and ending on the "In" port of the hydraulic block):
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead (Steel)
3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Set ISO Series B NPTF (Steel)
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPTF Male (Steel)
3/8" X 12" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel (Steel)
3/8" JIC x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead Union with Locknut (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long (Steel)


I used 30" hoses because they were pre-made and cheap. They are very nice and fit very well however 27" would have been ideal. I also did it in all 3/8ths and #6 so I didn't have to adapt any sizes and that worked out well. Last my quick disconnect set on my BH46 was ISO Series B so I just went with that. Check your backhoe or if you don't have one you really can get whichever ones you want.


Step 0
Remove right rear tire from the tractor. Remove the hydraulic block from the tractor. This will require removing the two hex bolts from the loader valve and sliding the block out toward the back of the tractor (it is behind the valve). One of the banjo bolts attaching a line to the valve will need to be removed to gain access to the hex bolt.

Step 1
Remove the 3 caps from the hydraulic block. Insert the plug (PT13744) through the opening and reinstall the cap. In the "Out" port install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB fitting then connect the 30" hose to that. Next install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long fitting in the "In" port and attach a 30" hose to that.

The normal 90 and double long 90 fit perfect. It looks tight but there is an air gap. To get them to fit you have to install in the order above.

Step 2
Put the block back in the tractor, install hex bolts and banjo fitting.

Step 3
Drill out the bracket on the back of the tractor to fit the bulkhead connectors. I am not sure what this was intended for by Deere but it works great for this.Install bulkheads and connect 30" hoses to them under the bracket. Install the NPT bulkhead in the hole near the fender and the JIC one toward the middle of the tractor.

Step 4
Attach the female quick disconnect to the NPT bulkhead (Use proper sealant). Attach the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPT Male fitting to the male quick disconnect (use proper sealant). Attach the 12" hose and then use the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel to attach to the JIC bulkhead.

Step 5
Add decal M808060 to make it look more factory.

All in all it works great. The only thing I am going to keep an eye out for is a shorter female quick disconnect so it protrudes less.

Is it is OK to post I purchased the hoses from Surplus Center and The fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

This forum has been extremely helpful to me in many ways while acquiring my 2520 and I thought I would try and give back a little.

Before I get started a lot of background info to do this was collected off this forum and most of it came from KennyD in one post or another.

I just really wanted to put together a consolidated list of parts to do PB on a 2520. I am very happy how this came out and I think I have about $65 into it instead of the $300 kit from Deere. Maybe this will help some folks save some money.

Parts List from Deere:
PT13744 John Deere Plug
M808060 John Deere Label (In/Out Sticker - Very Optional)

Hydraulic Parts (I am going to put these in the order of hydraulic flow starting from the "Out" port on the tractor hydraulic block and ending on the "In" port of the hydraulic block):
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead (Steel)
3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnect Set ISO Series B NPTF (Steel)
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPTF Male (Steel)
3/8" X 12" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel (Steel)
3/8" JIC x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead Union with Locknut (Steel)
3/8" X 30" JIC 6F X JIC 6F Hydraulic Hose
90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long (Steel)


I used 30" hoses because they were pre-made and cheap. They are very nice and fit very well however 27" would have been ideal. I also did it in all 3/8ths and #6 so I didn't have to adapt any sizes and that worked out well. Last my quick disconnect set on my BH46 was ISO Series B so I just went with that. Check your backhoe or if you don't have one you really can get whichever ones you want.


Step 0
Remove right rear tire from the tractor. Remove the hydraulic block from the tractor. This will require removing the two hex bolts from the loader valve and sliding the block out toward the back of the tractor (it is behind the valve). One of the banjo bolts attaching a line to the valve will need to be removed to gain access to the hex bolt.

Step 1
Remove the 3 caps from the hydraulic block. Insert the plug (PT13744) through the opening and reinstall the cap. In the "Out" port install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB fitting then connect the 30" hose to that. Next install the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x #6 SAE/ORB, Double Long fitting in the "In" port and attach a 30" hose to that.

The normal 90 and double long 90 fit perfect. It looks tight but there is an air gap. To get them to fit you have to install in the order above.

Step 2
Put the block back in the tractor, install hex bolts and banjo fitting.

Step 3
Drill out the bracket on the back of the tractor to fit the bulkhead connectors. I am not sure what this was intended for by Deere but it works great for this.Install bulkheads and connect 30" hoses to them under the bracket. Install the NPT bulkhead in the hole near the fender and the JIC one toward the middle of the tractor.

Step 4
Attach the female quick disconnect to the NPT bulkhead (Use proper sealant). Attach the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC x 3/8" NPT Male fitting to the male quick disconnect (use proper sealant). Attach the 12" hose and then use the 90 Elbow, 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Female Swivel to attach to the JIC bulkhead.

Step 5
Add decal M808060 to make it look more factory.

All in all it works great. The only thing I am going to keep an eye out for is a shorter female quick disconnect so it protrudes less.

Is it is OK to post I purchased the hoses from Surplus Center and The fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose.

I also have a 2520 and when I bought it new, my dealer said there was no option for aux hydraulics.
So I bought 2 two port 2 way valves (2 input, and 2 sets of 2 output).
Cut the lines that go from the joy stick block down to the couplers that control the loader and brought them up to the valves (one in and one out to each valve mounted on back of tractor) then routed one set of lines back down to the coupler then the other set to a pair of couplers mounted on the ROP to provide aux hydraulic power to towed implements. Done the same thing with the remaining lines to the second valve but instead of going to another aux coupler I removed the third link arm and replaced if with a cylinder and ran those hoses to it.)
Summary with both valves in the out position the loader and the curl work just like it did before I did anything. If you close the left valve (both valves can be reached from the seat) then the curl function controls the cylinder on the third link (this is extremely helpful when using the box blade also handy when trying to connect to three point equipment) loader still goes up and down as normal. If you close the right valve the joy stick controls what ever you have attached to the aux connectors. I done this about 5 years ago and have had no problems.

 

I think I put my reply in the wrong place so here is another try.
I also have a 2520 and when I bought it new, my dealer said there was no option for aux hydraulics.
So I bought 2 two port 2 way valves (2 input, and 2 sets of 2 output).
Cut the lines that go from the joy stick block down to the couplers that control the loader and brought them up to the valves (one in and one out to each valve mounted on back of tractor) then routed one set of lines back down to the coupler then the other set to a pair of couplers mounted on the ROP to provide aux hydraulic power to towed implements. Done the same thing with the remaining lines to the second valve but instead of going to another aux coupler I removed the third link arm and replaced if with a cylinder and ran those hoses to it.)
Summary with both valves in the out position the loader and the curl work just like it did before I did anything. If you close the left valve (both valves can be reached from the seat) then the curl function controls the cylinder on the third link (this is extremely helpful when using the box blade also handy when trying to connect to three point equipment) loader still goes up and down as normal. If you close the right valve the joy stick controls what ever you have attached to the aux connectors. I done this about 5 years ago and have had no problems. Bought cylinder and valves from Baily Hydraulics.

 

Great guide. Thanks for the info!

 

Can a second hydraulic block be added to the power beyond block

 

No, no room. But...Why would you need to do that?

 

Maybe 1 block for the power beyond and the other for a 3rd scv

 

You can do that with one block and proper hose routing.

 

What is the proper hose routing? Do you have pic's or instructions?