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Most modern Diesel engines have so much compression a heater is just not necessary. The purpose of a block heater is to warm the cylinders to aid in starting.
Errr.. that may be YOUR purpose in using one but for those who live in areas where over-night temps drop to -30 and lower, the general concern is more with the crankcase oil turning to the consistancy of peanut butter. Have you ever heard an engine started at -30? Once your crankcase oil gels you have zero lubrication and your crank and camshaft bearings will take one heck of beating for a couple of minutes until the engine warms enough to thin the oil. I've seen numerous engines seize or spin bearings because they couldn't get the oil flowing quickly enough. Synthetic oils have helped with this problem in recent years but they haven't completely solved it.

Others also use block heaters more for operator comfort. That way they don't have to wait for the engine to warm the coolant and they can kick on the heater immediately.
 
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I went with an engine block heater, have yet to use it as it was installed 2 months ago....had tractor 5 years here in CT and never had a issue with starting. have kept in unheated shed, and when needed w/ winter at its coldest, put a blanket over it and small heater under it pre start. think block heater is safer way to go. Having said all that, I don't have to deal w/ the temps you do.....I did use a thread on this forum as a guide to install, was easy to follow and very well written. If you go that route I will attempt to find it again. Good luck w/ your decision.
Your machine was before the government forced its heavy hand in screwing it up. I had a 1995 new holland that came with a block heater, but never was plugged in once and started as smooth as glass even at -30F.
 
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Block Heater Question

So John Deere 1025R TLB do you now have a block heater on your 1025R?
 
Most modern Diesel engines have so much compression a heater is just not necessary.

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I can 2nd the opinion that blockheaters are indeed needed. I live in Wisconsin where we can see -40 on the thermometer. My 3320 Deere will not start even with the built in pre heater when the temp gets around zero unless I have it parked in a heated building or use a block heater.

The more compression you have the more difficult it is to start your engine. It takes alot of battery power and a strong starter to turn a high compression engine over to start it.
 
Are you leaving this on the tractor while plowing?
I don't.

In theory I suppose I could but I'd be concerned about it falling off and being that I use it next to the alternator and starter, if it fell there is a good chance it would land on a fairly major electrical connection. It's easy enough to just grab it and pull it off the block and set it on the shelf in my garage whenever I'm going to use the tractor.
 
I had the engine block heater install when I bought my 1025R 2013.
I used it all last winter. It made a difference starting if the tractor was left out side in a non heater shed.
By heating the block not only makes easier to start it put less stress on the engine and it should last longer with out problems.
 
I can 2nd the opinion that blockheaters are indeed needed. I live in Wisconsin where we can see -40 on the thermometer. My 3320 Deere will not start even with the built in pre heater when the temp gets around zero unless I have it parked in a heated building or use a block heater.

The more compression you have the more difficult it is to start your engine. It takes alot of battery power and a strong starter to turn a high compression engine over to start it.
Totally agree, anyone who has had the privilege of trying to start a diesel at -30 without being plugged in will testify to this. My 2320 refuses to start at that temp if it is not plugged in. And I can say I don't blame it one bit.
 
Quick check of KAT's webpage shows two styles of engine heaters are thermostatically controlled, the lower rad hose style, & circulating tank heaters. I suspect the freeze plug & cartridge style are like all the heaters I've used over the last 40+ yrs, they get so hot then turn off for a while, then turn back on. Kat's

I've had block heaters on most of the vehicles I've owned, ALL the diesels and most of the gas trucks. I LIKE having warm air from the heater/defrosters immediately!

You can leave block heaters plugged in for days, even weeks, or longer. Just expect a rude surprise when the light bill comes. Costs a couple Dollars a Day to run them.

Block heaters are one thing that if 500 or 750 watts is good, 1500 is NOT always better. On small cooling systems they heat the water too hot too fast and not get the needed circulation started and they don't heat as well. BT-DT. You want to pull the cold coolant as close to the thermostat as possible, then send the hot coolant back into the engine as far away from the thermostat as possible.

I had the block heater on my '87 F150 w/300-6 plugged in one night. Next morning I go out and start the truck to go to work and the truck starts like it's Zero out. I get out to unplug the block heater and it's already "unplugged". Both ends of the cord under the front bumper are burned to a crisp, and the male & female halves of the plug are totally gone! Lucky the truck, and car, and whole garage/shop didn;t burn to the ground. Block heaters by design pull a lot of amps, they will find weak spots in the wiring of the cord & plug.

When I used my diesel pickup as my daily driver for nine years, it got plugged in ANY night the temp dropped to freezing or below. It wouldn't get that cold in my shop, but I liked having the truck running by the time it completed it's first revolution with no knocking, rattling, smoking, etc. And the starter & batteries last so much longer. In fact, my 18-1/2 year old truck still has the factory starter with over 300,000 miles, and the second set of batteries are over 11 years old.

Starting a freezing cold diesel engine is about the hardest thing you can do to them, short of over-heating them or running them out of oil.
 
If a magnetic unit is on the oil pan for an hour or so will it heat the block in any measurable way as well?.. Just thinking that if the oil is warm than some of the heat from the warm oil might naturally radiate upward to the block or at least some of the "innards" of the engine.. Wonder if its enough to matter though?.. I didn't look to see if there's even room anywhere on a 1 series block to stick the thing even if I wanted to..
 
If a magnetic unit is on the oil pan for an hour or so will it heat the block in any measurable way as well?.. Just thinking that if the oil is warm than some of the heat from the warm oil might naturally radiate upward to the block or at least some of the "innards" of the engine.. Wonder if its enough to matter though?.. I didn't look to see if there's even room anywhere on a 1 series block to stick the thing even if I wanted to..
I bought the Kat's 300w magnetic heater discussed in this thread since it was cheaper (and easier to install) than a block heater.
My 1025r will start in the cold without it, but it coughs, smokes, and the engine clatters loudly for quite some time after startup. Makes me cringe. I thought maybe the magnetic heater would help.

I have been attaching it to the oil pan since that is the only place I can find room to attach it.

So far (in 3-4 tests) I have seen some improvement, but I have not been overly impressed.
Pre-heating for ~2 hours when it was ~10F, the engine started with no clattering. However, the coughing/smoking still lasted ~10 seconds after startup...less time than without heat, but still seems prolonged.
In this case, the oil pan felt warm to the touch before startup. I did not test the block to see if it felt warm.

@40F yesterday, I left it plugged in for about 1 hour before attempting to start. The clattering was bad on startup and lasted for a minute or more. The smoking/coughing was ~10 seconds.

I'll keep experimenting, but I expected more noticeable improvement than this.
 
A moving blanket thrown over the hood will greatly increase any heater's efficiency and you'll have a lot warmer engine for the same power used. Simple and free.:good2:
 
I have a block heater and it works well. This year I'm upping the ante by using JD 0W40 synthetic oil. Our temps go as low as -35F. I have always used synthetic in my vehicles and it makes quite a difference on very cold days.
 
Stopped by my dealer today to check price and availability of a block heater and the adapter plate. They had both in-stock but the pricing seemed a bit high. So I came home, checked on the Green Farm Parts site and my dealer was high. Ordering both parts from GFP saved me $40+ in part cost/no taxes/free shipping and their Black Friday GRAVY 10% discount. Thanks guys!
 
used my 200w magnetic heater for the 1st time yesterday on my 1023.. just wanted to try it out.. not that cold, only -3 Celsius (what is that for you u.s guys, about 28 degrees?), but it made a huge difference with warm oil.. I counted to see how long till no smoke.. Exactly 5 seconds vs about 10 seconds with cold oil.. That's after an hour of heating the pan..
 
Where to put the Kat 300 on a 1025?

I picked up the Kat at the local TSC. Attempted to stick it to the oil pan of my1025 but no stick. The pan must be aluminum or plastic??
Looked around for another place without taking side panels off with no luck. Any hints where to put this sucker.

Even tried to stick it on the 2500 Chevy, aluminum pan as well.

Help!
 
My magnetic heater sticks to my 1025 pan just fine. However there are some ridges on the pan that could be causing your problem.

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I don't use either of them... its well known to have tough weather up on the marrowback , I just throw a tarp over my new 2032R and toss my 500 watt halo work light under my tractor, after a some hours the whole tractors warm as a tarp doesn't breath well and no melting or fire issues I've used work lights my whole life with no issues.. except the occasional blown bulb. usually my fault. requires no $$ no time and most already have one laying around :bigthumb:
 
I've used my block heater a few times this winter and it works great, heats the entire engine and makes a smooth start at low temps. I just make sure to unplug it at least a minute before starting, maybe too cautious but after 2 winters it still works.
 
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